In reply to John R:
Caerfai Bay is an excellent campsite. As well as cleaning the toilets for you Ms. Panton will also pull yourteeth and so on in her daytime job.
On my first visit there I walked along the cliff path because I'd seen someone belaying through my binoculars. I walked on and found someone bringing his mate up Armorican. After a short exchange I ran back towards the campsite for my Scarpas.
At the car park a well intentioned woman who had obviously seen me chatting to the belayer then start running stopped me and said"It's OK. I've got it in hand now. Take deep breaths and tell me what the emergency is and I'll take it from there..."
Me gasping trying to be polite , wanting to say "Get out of my way you fucking busybody and let me get to my tent to pick up my rock shoes otherwise the offer of a rope will have gone.."
Anyway it turned out OK, I seconded one of the best VS routes in Welsh coastal climbing with a bloke I'd known for 2 minutes and agreed to go to Mur Cenhinen with him the day after.....
Post edited at 19:29