In reply to UKC Articles:
Thank you Taylor, really interesting summary. I’ll certainly be digging through some of those papers to see if there are any avenues for my own research. A timely article for me and nice to see that climbing is steadily moving away from just extrapolating from running and resistance research.
My tuppence on the “just get out and climb” debate - having some insight into what will/won’t help my climbing progress is always of interest to me personally. It’s not the be all and end all, but if I can have fun and spend time with friends while progressing a little faster then I’m all for understanding a bit more about how the body and mind can be coaxed into being a little more effective. I don’t begrudge anyone who doesn’t look at it the same way, but I hear a fair bit of questionable anecdotal advice for climbers. Research like this will filter down over time and hopefully help people to climb healthily and happily whatever their goals.
The marginal gains of elite athletes may not ever be relevant to me, but there’ll still be lessons I can use to improve and to avoid getting injured in the process.
Stu