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Scarpa MONT Blanc Pro or Mammut Nordwand lightGTX

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Looking to upgrade to B3 boots this season, for climbing in Scotland. I like the ultralight appeal of the Mammut Nordwand’s but seems like maybe the Mont Blanc’s might be more robust for the ‘variable’ conditions in Scotland. Anyone got any experience of either of these boots, or any informed opinions on the most suitable lightweight b3 boot for Scotland climbing between grade II and (eventually) V? They’re both around the £300 mark, so similar on price.

 Alex Riley 30 Sep 2018
In reply to TheAmateurAlpinist:

My mont blanc pro's are really comfy and climb really well, but they leak like a sieve and can be a bit cold (probably because of the wetness). No experience of the mammut boots.

 climber34neil 30 Sep 2018
In reply to Alex Riley:

I have the mammut nordwands (with built-in gaiter) , don't know what the light gtx is like or if it's the same,but for what it's worth they are super comfy, warm and haver never leaked (yet!). Since using these I've never had cold or wet feet in winter

 climber34neil 30 Sep 2018
In reply to TheAmateurAlpinist:

Sorry, they are different, however just found this

http://www.thealpinestart.com/2018/02/22/review-mammut-nordwand-light-mid-g...

 olddirtydoggy 30 Sep 2018
In reply to climber34neil:

Just letting you know, my antivirus blocked that link due to a potential data loss.

 CurlyStevo 30 Sep 2018
In reply to TheAmateurAlpinist:

You may find those super lights are a bit too bendy to climb steep ice well, it can be a pattern with super / ultra light boots. They can be more like b2 even if they have the b3 fitting.

Boots you should also look at include Scarpa rebel ultra and nepal extremes. Probably you should choose the one that fits best. If they fit the Nepal’s are good. The only criticism of the Nepals ( or Gtx sister models) is the sole and welt of the front toe welt have a tendency to wear down from the walkins and can often impair c3 crampon fit somewhat. 

Personally I find most leather boots give me blisters too easily. But I have odd shaped heels.

Post edited at 00:09
In reply to CurlyStevo:

I really like the look of the Rebel Ultras but finding anywhere to try them on, or even being sold at my size has proven a bit tricky. Thankfully it'll be a season or two before I climb truly vertical ice, so hopefully the Nordwand's prove stiff enough for up to grade 5 Scottish mixed. As long as their water proofing is up to Scotland's weather...

In reply to climber34neil:

Ta very much. If they can handle the creeping dampness of Scottish winter I'd like the Nordwand's. 

In reply to Alex Riley:

I assumed the Mont Blanc's would be more waterproof than the Mammut's, just going by the look of the them, but worrying to hear they let in the cold and damp...

 Alex Riley 01 Oct 2018
In reply to TheAmateurAlpinist:

The gaiter design seems to funnel snow up into your sock.. ok if you wear an external gaiter, but that slightly defeats the point of a built in gaiter.

 CurlyStevo 01 Oct 2018
In reply to TheAmateurAlpinist:

Have you tried on Nepal’s?

i would see those super light boots as specialist rather than Scottish work horses suitable for a good range of grades.

Scarpa boots are well made. I doubt you’ll find any issues with them leaking. My Scarpa frenies are years old and don’t leak.

Post edited at 14:14

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