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New Climbing shoes; Intermediate-Experienced

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 JoelPatchitt 08 Oct 2018

I'm looking for a pair of climbing shoes that would best suit my ability and price range.

I am comfortably climbing French grade 6a (5a-5b British tech or 5.10a YDS) and looking for a durable pair of climbing shoes anything below £100. I'm fairly broad footed and velcro straps are preferred.

What brands should I really be paying attention to? Never invested in a pair so any advice would be great.

 Iamgregp 08 Oct 2018
In reply to JoelPatchitt:

No point making reccomendations as not all shoes work for different people's feet.  For example, I'd love a pair of 5.10 Anasazis, as everyone says it's a great shoe, but these and indeed any 5.10 won't fit my feet.

I'd say go to a shop with a wide range of shoes and brands, try on as many as possible and then buy the ones you felt the best in.  It probably won't be the ones you had in mind when you walked in.

 Marmolata 09 Oct 2018
In reply to JoelPatchitt:

For my broad feet Boreals are a good fit. I wear them a full size down from my street shoes Maybe the Diaboloscould be the right show for you? But all attempts of buying climbing shoes online for me have failed. 

 wbo 09 Oct 2018
In reply to JoelPatchitt:try  Scarpa vapor v.  But the word to emphasise is try

 

 HeMa 09 Oct 2018
In reply to JoelPatchitt:

Test... but as for shoes, look for flat or slighly townturned toes. LaSpo Katana, Millet Hybrid or 5.10 Anazasi Velcro would be the kind of shoes.

Post edited at 20:01
1
 Tigger 11 Oct 2018
In reply to JoelPatchitt:

As mentioned above whatever fits well, id maybe avoid certain shoes with thinner rubber such as Tenaya's that use 3.5mm. Purely for durability sake, below £100 there's no end of choice! Vapor V (the lace up fits me better though), Ocun Ozone, Miura VS, Katanas, Anasazi VCS, Evolv Shaman, Boreal Diabolo etc... Probs £80 - £90 for most of these though. Although many will take a good resole, my old pair of Miuras are on their 2nd (soon to be third) and a still good for most things except stupidly small edges.

In reply to JoelPatchitt:

> I'm looking for a pair of climbing shoes that would best suit my ability and price range.

> I am comfortably climbing French grade 6a (5a-5b British tech or 5.10a YDS) and looking for a durable pair of climbing shoes anything below £100. I'm fairly broad footed and velcro straps are preferred.

> What brands should I really be paying attention to? Never invested in a pair so any advice would be great.

Which shoes have you been using ? I would check the types that felt comfortable. There are plenty of good brands around but comfort should be your main consideration for now.

1
 ripper 11 Oct 2018
In reply to JoelPatchitt:

As everyone has pointed out, your first three priority factors should all be 'do they fit my feet', so try some pairs on.

That said, in my experience (also have broad feet) 5.10 Anasazi VCS and Scarpa Vapour offer the best fit. Also worth trying the 5.10 Gambit, if you don't get on with the fairly aggressive heel on the Anasazis. Rock & Run was selling these off at a knock-down price recently.

 bouldery bits 11 Oct 2018
In reply to JoelPatchitt:

5.10 Anasazi velcro's spring to mind.

include usual disclaimer about fit here.

Wiley Coyote2 11 Oct 2018
In reply to JoelPatchitt:

Vapours have transformed my climbing with their precision but, as everyone else has said, they are no use if they don't suit your feet

 eb202 16 Oct 2018
In reply to JoelPatchitt:

I also have wide feet and also get on very well with Vapour Vs, which are also velcro! Mine have now been resoled twice. I recently tried on a pair of Scarpa Instinct VS which felt similarly suitable for wide feet. 

Post edited at 14:12
 bandit12 16 Oct 2018
In reply to JoelPatchitt:

Unfortunately "durable" is not a word you would normally associate with climbing shoes. As these will be your first pair and from your other post you have only been climbing for about 3 weeks it is very likely you will wear them out very quickly, probably in just a few months. My advice would be get whatever feels a good snug fit but not painful, don't worry about performance shoes, modern cheap beginner to intermediate shoes are more than good enough into the low/mid 7's. If you stick with the main brands you should be able to get at least one resole out of them.


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