UKC

In Majorca/Mallorca on a non climbing holiday and I notice that there's rather a lot of rock about

From what I can see on the UKC crags/climbs database, there seem to be a lot of bits of climbable rock that aren't in the database (and so presumably not in the RF guide), and at least one of those has (non recent) bolts on it so has been climbed on.

My question is, how much of the climbing is in the RF and/or in the UKC database.

And presuming it's not 100%, is there a definitive source.

In reply to Michael Hood:

Hi Michael

I count around 9 crags on Logbooks that aren't in the Rockfax guide plus a few newer DWS venues on the East Coast, and a few older venues that are now banned. 

Mont Port - New venue that looks interesting
Santa Ponsa Harbour - Another place that looks new and good. Quite hard.
Capdellà - Pretty landscape but not worth a visit. We rejected including this.
La Vileta - Small easy crag but not a brilliant one. Also rejected from the last book.
Penyal de Can Fil - Good looking place with complex access. Quite hard routes. We will probably include this in the next edition.
Vall De Son Marc - Bouldering venue
Sa Font - Dreadful crag not worth visiting.
Boquer Valley -  Old crag that we used to include. Access was banned and may still be but the bolting is ancient.
La Victoria - Okay small area but nothing special.

There are also other crags that aren't on UKC but these tend to be kept quiet by the locals.

There is a local book from 2008 that has a few of those above plus around another 5 or 6 crags in it although it doesn't have quite a number of the crags in the 2016 Rockfax and I am not sure if it is still available.

Hope this helps

Alan

In reply to Alan James - Rockfax: thanks Alan, purely academic interest as not climbing here (this time).

The place I saw some belay bolts/chains was on the road to Formenter, from the road col on the way to the cap, there's a well constructed tourist path to a viewpoint. The gear was below the wall on that path, some looked old, some looked not too old. I guess it's banned there, too public (above).

The other place was the hill less than one km east of Castell d'Alaro. Lots of big steep stuff there but no idea if any climbs. Also huge rockfall there, scree slope covering the trees. I wondered how long ago that rockfall occurred.

 

 

 

In reply to Michael Hood:

The routes at Formentor I think were put up by Brits (or even Chris Sharma?). There are two routes I think and at least one is  a long multi-pitch 7a-ish thing. They are over 20 years old though and I don’t think they used long-lasting bolts. I might be mixing these up with routes back at Creveta though.

The place to the east of Castell d’Alaró is S’Alcendena. Yes, it is even more impressive the Alaro but it is banned. The rockfall was around 10 years ago I think. There is actually more on Alaro itself including the east face but I haven’t found it documented anywhere. We have a few reports of routes but it doesn’t sound like a holiday crag.

Further west from Alaro is Na Bastide and Sa Taulera both of which look to be good crags. I am not sure of the access situation but they are mostly hard, very hard and projects which is why we didn’t include them in the last Rockfax. They are in the 2008 book I mentioned above.

Alan