UKC

finally getting round to doing Diedre UBSA next week, but got a couple of q’s for anyone out there who’s done it?

1 or 2 ropes? (thinking about baggage allowance)

take much gear along? (Baggage allowance again)

Much polish? (Bottle allowance)

thanks in advance,

stu

Hi,

great route, enjoy!

I think a single rope should be fine, as long as it is long enough for the abseil. Emergence abseiling the entire route will be long, but should be doable.

I don't remember much about the gear, 3 cams, 5 nuts or so?

the bottom part of the wall tends to have a soapy feel to it. But it is very cool, classical climbing.

Look at the pitch lengths  but it's usually set up for abbing on 60's I.e 30m max pitches. 

Gear, take a set or half set of nuts just in case you feel like you need it. I didn't but I know other folk who used 4 or 5 pieces over the length of the route. 

Enjoy and give the cats fuss. 

I'd recommend at least a small rack. The bottom pitch is loose shit if you go direct. The rest is very solid. The 2nd pitch can feel off-puttingly soapy, but press on. The abseil is fun. It can be very hot higher up. I would not want to walk down in rock shoes. 

It's brilliant.

Thanks Hans,

we’re looking forward to it, I’ll take some gear!

cheers Phil, so, take 2 ropes then?

Your profile says VS as best onsite.  If that's true, take a smallish rack and two ropes.

Thanks Pero,

i haven’t posted on the forums for a couple of years, so I’ve updated my profile, cheers for the advice 

Stu

As a party of 3 we did it in about 4 hours early on this year.

I would just take a reasonable selection of cams and some large wires plus quick draws.

It is well polished.

If you are competent at HVS you will cruise it.

Thanks Neil, appreciate your input,

Stuart

A classic route - just don't do what we did... After the short abseil on pitch 7 you need to traverse well left into the main corner... We didn't go far enough, found a smaller 'corner' and ended up finishing by the top two pitches of Los Miserables - great climbing but a bit harder than we were expecting!!!

The point about not wanting to walk back down in rock shoes is well made - my mate left the top of his climbing sack unzipped on the final pitch and his approach shoes took flight - he was not a happy man by the time we got back down... We never found his shoes...

and don't forget "avoid the tat"!!

Thanks for the tip, I’ve been getting whatever beta I can from people at my local wall, really looking forward to it! ????????

Thanks Emma, 

fully intend to!