UKC

Soft 7c in Siurana

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 Tyler 17 Oct 2018

As the title suggests, I'm after a soft 7c in Siurana, ideally not too short or bouldery (i.e. not Ya Os Vale). Skin friendly would be good but soft for the grade (not obviously undergraded though) is the main criteria!

1
 Ian Patterson 17 Oct 2018
In reply to Tyler:

When are you going? If you're climbing in the shade then north face has El Falco has a couple of excellent 7c's, Vendetta in particular is great, sustained slighlty overhanging wall climbing, not really soft but definitely not hard or bouldery.  There's also a superb 7b+ crack next to it which is also pretty steady for the grade if you're OK with laybacking and the odd jam.

At L'Aparador I believe that Solos a Solas is supposed to be bit soft, big 40m stamina pitch that some seem is say is easier than the 7b+ to its right (which is great).  However it is pretty airy with 11 bolts or so in 40m (!!!) - trying to build up the nerve to give it a go.  

 

Post edited at 18:02
 bandit12 17 Oct 2018
In reply to Tyler:

Try Vendetta at El Falco, great varied climbing. A couple of crimps near the top might feel harsh on soft tips though.

Ian - just beat me to it.

Post edited at 18:06
mike1979 17 Oct 2018
In reply to Tyler:

I liked Lua at siuranella est. not sure if it’s a real soft touch but certainly not high in the grade and a really cool route. 

OP Tyler 18 Oct 2018
In reply to Ian Patterson:

Thanks Ian and Bandit, interesting you both recommend he same route given it only has a couple of ticks in the UKC logbook. I'm quite keen to visit L'Aparador as well, loved every route I've done on there.

OP Tyler 18 Oct 2018
In reply to mike1979:

That sounds awesome, I'll make a note.

 Ally Smith 18 Oct 2018
In reply to Tyler:

Lua (7c) - awesome route. Tough up to the roof, then an amazing airy top arete. Middle of the grade?

Mucho tronco, poca madera (7c) - sequential sidepulls - a bit like Malham. Lower end.

Crosta pànic L2 (7c) - rest up in kneebars just below the chains on the 7a+ L1 then a wee boulder problem before a less than vert exit. 

 

Also consider Hot Knife (7c) - again brilliant, but certainly not soft and has a sting in the tail.

 

 Ally Smith 18 Oct 2018
In reply to Tyler:

Kamaleón (7c) - if your ankle will tolerate the walk up to Raco de Misa, this is amazing and super soft (think Chulilla grades)

 Wft 18 Oct 2018
In reply to Ally Smith:

I thought I had Hot Knife in the bag until I got stung, I could've cried but the Brazillian belaying me was laughing so loud it would have been awkward. Recommended route.  

Lua has always scared me because of the picture in the guide with the rope around the arete, does it run ok? 

 JR 18 Oct 2018
In reply to Tyler:

Mássimo Tartaglia (7c) I really enjoyed (and was my first flash of the grade, so it must be soft!). A little techy, but it’s all there.

 Dandan 19 Oct 2018
In reply to Tyler:

L'imbecil (7c) was my first at the grade and went very quickly so I'd imagine it's soft. Great face climbing on crimps and very photogenic as there is a ledge opposite that you can walk up to. 

 jwi 19 Oct 2018
In reply to Tyler:

Solas a Solas as several people have mentioned is a good choice, but Avatar on Reina Mora would be my main choice as Solas a Solas requires quite a bit confidence at the grade for the onsight. Don't totally write off Ya Os Vale, it is very onsightable even if it's short. If I'm allowed suggestions on other crags around Cornudella: El marginao in Arboli or, if you're passable at slab climbing, Excalibur also in Arboli (perhaps the best of all routes I've mentioned?) A bit further away in Masriudoms, ATP up to the second anchor is surely the easiest jug haul 7c in Catalonia? Then there's Margalef...

The best? That's another question entirely...

Post edited at 21:27
 Pumbaa1987 05 Nov 2018
In reply to Ian Patterson:

Had a pull on that in March to the 7b+ chains.big spaces but the bolts are in the right places. Great route, one to go back and get clean 

OP Tyler 05 Nov 2018
In reply to Tyler:

I here now and this all seems horribly optimistic. I was expecting to come back again in December however which probably won't now be happening


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