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Decent weather and easy sport in Europe - Where?

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 dry 20 Oct 2018

I'm planning to start a campervan trip in Europe to enjoy sport climbing in decent weather, with no end date.

 

Looking to find a decent spot or area to spend Christmas and the New Year's, try some easy sport climbing as I'm fairly new, and a nice area to enjoy and stay for a while.

I've been looking at Spain mostly, any suggestions?

 Emilio Bachini 20 Oct 2018
In reply to dry:

Andalusia is a pretty good bet. I think you’ll be lucky to find better weather (at least in terms or general warmth and consistancy) elsewhere in Europe.

 

El Chorro is an easy option, especially if you’re without a partner. Plus you’d pass a life time or a few of rock on your way down, assuming you’re leaving from the U.K.

 

 chrisdevon 21 Oct 2018
In reply to dry:

Costa Blanca. Weather is fine, though expect chilly nights. Lots of easy sport to go at. Can usually pick up partners from the Orange House fairly easily. I'll be out there in my van from mid December if you fancy a day or two at a crag.

 Rog Wilko 21 Oct 2018
In reply to dry:

The Toulon area of the Cote d'Azur can be a great winter alternative to the Spanish Costas. Not sure what you call easy sport climbing, but if you want 4, 4+, 5 there are some great crags here.

Mount Coudon Mount Faron Citerne Mount Faron Citerne

Baudouvin is the best crag for these grades that I have yet come across in France or Spain. You could probably tick the whole crag apart from one or two harder ones. There are plenty of other crags with easier routes in the vicinity.

 JHiley 21 Oct 2018
In reply to dry:

Hi, as an alternative to Spain, I got back from Finale Ligure last week. There's definitely lots of easy sport with very friendly bolting. Most of the crags seem to face south east or south west with sheltered bases and I've heard the area described as suitable for year round climbing. The sectors we visited were mainly long, relatively short crags in very picturesque settings. Multi-pitch walls also exist. Climbing is mainly on pockets but there are a good mix of styles even at low grades. We found 5s featuring tufas and overhangs.

We only visited 4 sectors due to losing 2 days to rain and 1 in Genoa but there are loads of sectors in the guide-brick with easy routes. The bolting we found seemed closer/ friendlier than some indoor walls. On a 31m route I set off with 16qds and had to skip 3 bolts. The bolts were all solid glue ins. There might be runouts in other sectors but the guide has ratings for equipment and there are loads of crags with 4*. We found no polish.

The area, particularly the historic walled town of Finalborgo are really nice.

Some downsides: The routes can be a bit sandbaggy in the 5+ to 6 range. We found this particularly at Rian Cornei. However the low 5s and 4s seemed fine unlike e.g. El Chorro's Escalera Arabe or Portland where the polished 4s and 5s sometimes can be quite challenging and I've known people take hard falls off 4s. The other sectors we visited seemed fine for the grade (allowing for the occasional awkward 5c+). There is a weird quirk where the guidebook frequently describes clearly overhanging routes as "vertical" which is a new one for me. The book also makes contradictory statements about the availability of low grade, well bolted climbing. Fortunately our limited sample suggests there is probably an inexhaustible amount.

Also, if you're in a van, the roads can be very narrow and winding. You may need to toot when going round corners in rural areas.

Also, if alone, you probably wont find other British/ US/ Aus/ groups of/ lone climbers. We met none in our trip, it was mainly German couples and families. While they mostly spoke English and were lovely, it might be hard to find partners.

One more thing, we were prepared for everything (shops and museums etc) being closed in the afternoons however everything also closed when it rained which was a problem for rest days.

Post edited at 11:06
 kenr 21 Oct 2018

Lots of S-facing around Marseille Toulon Calanques + Cap Canaille. Latest big blue guidebook says which Calanques crags are sheltered from Mistral. Get the newest Toulon (French-language) guidebook for even more routes. 

Also S-facing on Mt Ste Victoire.

Amazing easy/modt S-facing sea cliff traverses in Calanques + Cap Canaille (Tra Parpeles). Easy is nice because can keep moving on cool days.

Ken

 

 heleno 21 Oct 2018
In reply to chrisdevon:

> Costa Blanca. 

Having taken trips each Dec/Jan for the last 25 years to various destinations, I agree that Costa Blanca is the safest bet. El Chorro is deceptive - it's further south but most of the crags are high, whereas as on the Blanca you can climb at sea level if it's cold. There's also much more to go at in the easier grades. 

 

1
 lyons 21 Oct 2018
In reply to chrisdevon:

Hi Chris,

i will be in Costa Blanca 13th-27th Dec if you need a climbing partner.

cheers

Amanda

 chrisdevon 22 Oct 2018
In reply to lyons:

That sounds good Amanda, cheers. My plan is to leave on the 17th, arriving around the 20th after a fairly chilled drive. Feel free to message to make a plan!


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