In reply to dry:
Hi, as an alternative to Spain, I got back from Finale Ligure last week. There's definitely lots of easy sport with very friendly bolting. Most of the crags seem to face south east or south west with sheltered bases and I've heard the area described as suitable for year round climbing. The sectors we visited were mainly long, relatively short crags in very picturesque settings. Multi-pitch walls also exist. Climbing is mainly on pockets but there are a good mix of styles even at low grades. We found 5s featuring tufas and overhangs.
We only visited 4 sectors due to losing 2 days to rain and 1 in Genoa but there are loads of sectors in the guide-brick with easy routes. The bolting we found seemed closer/ friendlier than some indoor walls. On a 31m route I set off with 16qds and had to skip 3 bolts. The bolts were all solid glue ins. There might be runouts in other sectors but the guide has ratings for equipment and there are loads of crags with 4*. We found no polish.
The area, particularly the historic walled town of Finalborgo are really nice.
Some downsides: The routes can be a bit sandbaggy in the 5+ to 6 range. We found this particularly at Rian Cornei. However the low 5s and 4s seemed fine unlike e.g. El Chorro's Escalera Arabe or Portland where the polished 4s and 5s sometimes can be quite challenging and I've known people take hard falls off 4s. The other sectors we visited seemed fine for the grade (allowing for the occasional awkward 5c+). There is a weird quirk where the guidebook frequently describes clearly overhanging routes as "vertical" which is a new one for me. The book also makes contradictory statements about the availability of low grade, well bolted climbing. Fortunately our limited sample suggests there is probably an inexhaustible amount.
Also, if you're in a van, the roads can be very narrow and winding. You may need to toot when going round corners in rural areas.
Also, if alone, you probably wont find other British/ US/ Aus/ groups of/ lone climbers. We met none in our trip, it was mainly German couples and families. While they mostly spoke English and were lovely, it might be hard to find partners.
One more thing, we were prepared for everything (shops and museums etc) being closed in the afternoons however everything also closed when it rained which was a problem for rest days.
Post edited at 11:06