UKC

I'm considering going to the US in late April, either Yosemite or Utah/Indian Creek. I'm looking at going single pitch routes and some slightly longer things, ie no walls, but day routes or towers.

I've been to Yosemite before in the autumn a couple of times and found it too hot, so was thinking of going quite early in the season this time around. Anybody been and got a good insight into conditions? Alternatively, is April getting a bit late for the Utah desert?

Also what is the partner situation like at that time, in either or both destinations? Clearly May is prime time in the Valley so it's rammed, but is it really quiet in April?

Expect awesome waterfalls and flowers, and lots of mosquitoes. And more rain than autumn.

No, awesome waterfalls = lots of tourists

I meant other climbers!

Was in Yosemite mid April this year, waterfalls were amazing, quite a lot of tourists, however not masses of climbers.

I suspect if you turn up with your gear you'll find a partner, a lot of people were climbing the smaller stuff around camp 4 in groups rather than pairs.

A useful tip is to look at the recorded ascent dates on routes you are interested in on Mountain Project.

I need someone smart to create an algorithm that ignores ascents by sun-bronzed southern Californians and includes mostly those of holidaying Minnesotans...

One other thought is being a weather transition period you need to keep options open more than normal times for the Valley,  like May or October. There is always so much to do somewhere in the SW whatever tte weather. At least you won't have the eagerly awaited trip blocked by forest fire or a government budget shutdown in April.

Good call. Someone had suggested flying to LA and deciding where to go at the time. Other than Indian Creek/desert towers, any other good SW suggestions for world class trad/crack climbing, easy (ish) to find partners, clement weather?

Edit: that's not JT or Red Rocks as I've been there already. 

I've been to Moab twice late April/early May and it's been both ok and too hot. That sort of hot where you're leaving sweat on the rock and watching it evaporate. I was biking but people were still getting a bit done ...suspect a bit off their top grade though

Needles, Tahquitz/Suicide, Red Rocks and Joshua Tree are all world class.

Is Tahquitz/Suicide that good?

A quick example on the MP routefinder 3 pages of routes better than 3 star (from 4).

https://www.mountainproject.com/route-finder?selectedIds=105788020&type...

If you have never been you should go. It's pretty much year round with winter suntraps and a big high north face. Idylwild is a cool place despite the tourists with no franchise food outlets and a friendly climbing shop (where you can link in to the local climbers ). Its sort of on the way if you are heading behind the Sierra Nevada when fying in to LA (often the cheapest place to fly).