UKC

Quark or Nomic

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 AndyE9 31 Oct 2018

Hi all ..  

just putting so kit together for going bk into winter climbing , did a little a few years bk but due to my second son being born things were a bit short lived .. 

 

so the plans are we are hoping to get up to the lakes , and then a bit latter in the season a visit to Scotland for some classics on nevis , then maybe a trip down to the alps ..  but we will see .. 

Im after some new axes , sold the last ...  I like the look and feel of the quark's , but at the same time I have seen some good deals on the Nomic's  ..  question really is, will the nomics be more of a hinderance as they are a more technical tool while im climbing at some of the lower grades ? or are they something that will be as suitable ...   

 

cheers   

 DaveHK 31 Oct 2018
In reply to AndyE9:

I'd get the Quarks. A bit more usable on easier stuff and perfectly adequate for quite hard stuff too. Also, deals on Nomics might be on the older models that suffered from the wobbly heads.

 PaulW 31 Oct 2018
In reply to AndyE9:

I would go for Quarks or even something less technical even. Nomics are a great tool for steep hard stuff but in my opinion less suited to more moderate routes and varied climbing

 Tony Jones 31 Oct 2018
In reply to AndyE9:

It might be worth looking at Singing Rock Bandits. Similar to a Quark but with a significant saving for a pair. They're well put together and far more capable than I am at getting up winter routes.

OP AndyE9 31 Oct 2018

Cheers guys 

 

I’ll have a look at the other axes , but will prob go with the quarks 

 

 FATBOYFAT 31 Oct 2018
In reply to AndyE9:

Nomics are actually surprisingly functional on easy stuff provided you adapt your style to the tool. They're great on easy snow slopes where you grip mid shaft and the extra clearance keeps your hands out of the snow. Instead of plunging the shaft you plunge the head but this obviously doesn't work in harder snow.

Hammering pegs and warthogs with Nomics IS awkward but IMO the difference between Quark and Nomic is less significant than moving from a straight-shafted tool to a Quark. Both are also poor for axe belays and I do miss having a really functional adze now and then.

There's less difference in shaft profile than people think - the really significant difference is the handle - have a look at https://icebella.wordpress.com/2010/12/31/where-the-petzl-nomics-and-petzl-...

Both Quarks and Nomics climb really well. I opted for Nomics and haven't regretted it but I tend to prefer water ice. 

 starbug 01 Nov 2018
In reply to AndyE9:

Based on that choice, Quarks everytime, good tool that will easily accomodate lakes and scottish mixed routes. 

I would throw the Singing Rock Bandits cheap but heavy and Grivel Light machine good all round tool into the mix.

If you are looking at more technical axes go to a shop and check that your hands fit comfortably into the G of the handle with a pair of gloves on some adjust, some don't.

 

 Bezz 01 Nov 2018

I've got both, Nomics amazing in Scottish IV and up but I've use Quarks for everything from Scottish II to VI, and WI 5. Quarks are so versatile I'm considering selling the Nomics! 


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