UKC

youtube.com/watch?v=_fbCcWyYthQ&    this guy knows what he is talking about.Intensive training has a place,but  as a part of volume training.Flow state is best.

Really interesting, he's a good talker.

It's all part of a continuum, from technique and endurance across to strength and power. It is also dependent on goals - be it health, longevity or, elite performance. 

If i were to grapple, I'd definitely go for volume, and its important when training technique NOT to be fatigued. But if you want to lift heavy you've got to life heavy - at least occasionally. Or, if you are short of time but keen to improve health markers, you should go short, hard and fast.

Really interesting and good video. One thing not addressed is the assumption that volume is actually better than intensity. Most advocates of high intensity work outs emphasize the importance of rest and keeping workouts short. The idea is not to overtax your recovery ability either.

I think the style of a workout would reflect what it is you're trying to train. The high volume at moderate intensity would be most suitable for skill training. Higher intensity training, less frequently, would be suitable for recruitment.

Not too sure about the stuff about soreness either. I've seen conflicting stuff on muscle soreness. Most of the time it's admitted that we don't even understand what it is. Others claim it's only in the fascia and nothing to do with the muscles. The primary cause is eccentric contractions. I think some exercises, like kettlebell swings, it's hard not to get sore when you first start. There's a heavy eccentric component to that exercise. Even just one set can get your hamstrings sore. But most soreness goes away in a week or two if you keep doing the exercise.

Applied to climbing I think climbing, for most people, is already pretty low intensity. We get stopped often because we haven't figured out the moves or we get scared and so don't push ourselves as hard as we could.

Overall though I think what he says is really good, particularly about enjoying what you do and having fun.

You having much freetime and bad weather, so need to resort to posting vids to UKC?

Unfortunately didn’t have time to whats this flick (tomorrow, when I’m at work ), but from What I gather is that some one (who? ) gives impressive arguments for volume training instead of power training.

Each to their own, but did he ever give peer reviewed information why this or that method is better than proper period training (endurance, power-endurance, power. Repeat). After all, perioditation training is quite well proven training theory, that constantly gives good results.