UKC

good afternoon,

i'm looking for some advice as I've not climbed in North Wales much.

I'm planning a climbing trip to North Wales with a friend and looking to climb at some classic Welsh crags with amazing routes in the lower grades as my partner is new to climbing (but very competent in the mountains in summer and winter). These can be single pitch or multi, road side or mountain crags.

I am aware of Idwal slabs and little tryfan just wondering if there are any other amazing crags in great settings and with routes to remember. 

cheers for your help.       

How about outside edge route, Outside Edge Route (VD)

This link has the 'Classic Rock' list from the book by Ken Wilson, should provide some entertainment.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=8

However, there are many routes of great quality not on this list.

Have Fun,  

The Moelwyns have many low to middle grade routes. Crags are low down, so often OK when it's wet elsewhere and a nice walk up the reservoir road to reach them.

Tremadog - Poor Man's Peutrey (S), Merlin Direct (HVS), Grim Wall (VS), Shadrach (VS), Mesach (HVS)

Dinas Mot - Direct (VS), The Cracks (HS)

Cloggy - Great Slab (VS)

Castle Helen - Lighthouse Arete (VS), Rap (VS) - need an ab rope.

Slate - Guillotine (VS), Seamstress (VS).

Castle Inn quarry - loads of 4s - 6s.

Esoterica - Anything by Kirkus, especially: Pinnacle Wall (S) Craig yr Ysfa, and Kirkus' route (VS) (a protectable offwidth! take a friend 6) on Craig Lloer.

                    Lavaredo Wall (VS). Oxine (VS). 

Should keep you busy!

Not many Colin Kirkus routes could be described as esoteric. 

The Nose of Dinas Mot (already mentioned) is a lovely crag, and very accessible.

Castle Inn quarry !!!???

Walks away shaking head

Some good suggestions already.   Clogwyn yr Oen (Moelwyns) is a nice spot with a variety of easier routes plus good visibilty between leader and second, which is always an advantage when climbing with someone newish to the game.   Clogwyn Bochlwyd has some nice easy routes and is often less busy than the Idwal Slabs or Milestone Buttress; there's a two-pitch Diff at the left hand end where the first pitch is a stroll through heather and boulders but the second pitch is terrific, one of those Diffs which is correctly graded but at the time may make you think you've got yourself into something you didn't expect.  Of the routes that didn't make it into Classic Rock but are nevertheless absolutely classic routes, one (Outside Edge Route (VD) has already been mentioned so I'll check the other, Amphitheatre Buttress (VD).  The walk-in is considerable but the rewards are tremendous.

T.

Just don't be tempted into it's Classic Rock Brother, Great Gully (S), it is simultaneously one of the worst routes I have ever climbed and one of the best days out I've had in years! A strong sense of humour ought to be packed above all else!

I'd recommend getting the Ground Up North Wales Rock guidebook and just picking crags out of there, I have not had an unenjoyable day out on any of the routes I've done from it.

Regrettably, I’m afraid there are no classic crags in Wales.

All the classic crags are in Cumbria, as any fule noes....????

Second recommendation for Amphitheatre Buttress - possible in boots and you should have it all to yourselves.

Maybe get the Rockfax north wales climbs guide. There are loads of routes in the lower grades. When we put it together we weighted the grading more to the easier routes.

flying buttress and spiral stairs on the cromlech are good.

outside Egde route that has been recommended is a great.

slick, slack and litmus routes on clogwyn y oen are great.

for a mountain day grooves arête or first pinnacle ridge are great.

there are a few things at tremadog at severe. Oberon and Christmas curry stand out alon with poor mans puertery.

Not sure if Outside Edge is as safe as it used to be !

There was a significant rock fall a couple of years back and I would seek advice before trying it. It's a grand route though.

As for esoterica the Teryn Bluffs offer great single pitch routes, Lockwoods Chimney - always a giggle if it rains (or Holyhead Mountain / Rhoscolyn for that matter).  If you are a confident leader there is the Red Slab to the right of Filliast slabs and also the Red Slab by Gallt Yr Ogof.

Plus 1 for Spiral Stairs and Flying Buttress on Dinas Cromlech Both classics. The former has the most amazing exposure on the first pitch on huge jugs. Interesting final crack pitch on the latter.

Also Amphitheatre Buttress , Craig yr Ysfa one of the longest V Diff mountain routes in Wales , and Milestone Buttress Direct Route on The Milestone Buttress safe and fun, including a hand traverse and a thought provoking final chimney/crack.

And Tryfan East Face :- Grooved Arete (arguably one of the best V Diffs in Wales with it's famous Knights Move half way up), Gashed Crag, First and Second Pinnacle Ribs all of which are good value. If you are feeling bold, the Yellow Slab pitch on First Pinnacle Rib gives you delicate and enjoyable 4b slab climbing on a Diff! (Can be bypassed if you aren't feeling bold )

I also agree that Outside Edge is a great V Diff. Lovely exposed situation. It's a few years since I last climbed it and hadn't realised that it's become less safe? Can anyone expand on this?

I know what you mean! It's a real love/hate climb, but an experience not to be missed, preferably in big boots. A great day out, you'll never forget it, but equally you will probably never want to do it again! Used to be regarded as a Rite of Passage in the same way as Lockwood's Chimney which had to be climbed in the dark on a wet miserable night in the 1960s when big mountain  adventure routes were the in thing

I climbed it with Oli Warlow who was doing a round of Classic Rock by bike this summer and my mate Chris, I think the experience was summed up by Chris' question on the way to Langdale the weekend after:

"Can we climb something with. less... grass this weekend please?"

The idea of doing it in the rain sounds horrendous!

It's a bit of a walk, but for position, rock quality, superb aspect and afternoon sun I would recommend Glyder Fach Main Cliff. quality at all the grades but Lot's Wife and Groove take some  beating. Also Hawk's Nest Buttress area is excellent.

Glyder Fach

That's a good shout, lovely crag.  I do remember the descent gully as being a bit trying, but I've never really got on with going down gullies.

T.