UKC

Hi UKCers I’m mostly an indoor wall climber and I have noticed on one arm I always get pumped out faster and my wrist flexibility is reduced compared to the other. Does anyone have any good links to stretching or tips to regain flexibility.

is it best to keep stretching during climbing or only before/after?

Reverse curl weights and good?

Thinking there must be some science to actually regaining that flexibility vs making it worse

thanks

As a start...

Try doing all the golfer's / tennis elbow rehab exercises

Some thera putty squeezing and reverse exercise using elastic bands (or the fancy five hole elastic thing advertised on here sometimes)

If you do pull ups then try using a hangboard or hanging rings instead of a normal chin up bar as it allows slightly better angles for your wrists 

I'm sure someone wiser will be along soon!

Good luck, 

S 

Might be worth getting on the carpal tunnel syndrome exercises even just as a prophylactic. 

Is your wrist flexibility reduced all the time, or just when that arm is pumped?

All the time not laterally but just the ability to bend back. For example if I press my palm flat on a 90 degree wall fingers pointing upwards I can just about get my arm to 90 degree to the wall but there is a fair bit of resistance in the forearm. If I were to try and do the same movement with no force on it I might get to45 degrees before my fingers start to curl.

I had a look into the carpal tunnel mentioned above but I can’t say I get any tingling in thumb or fingers. I just notice after a climbing session I need a good 3 clear days for the right forearm to recover to go at the same level whereas I have mates who can do two days on the trot no issue.

I generally stretch my fingers/wrists whilst I’m climbing but warm up on very easy stuff as opposed to having a separate specific warm up stretching routine which sounds like I need to do