UKC

Good locations for winter bouldering in Scotland

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 Elsier 27 Dec 2018

I'm based in near Edinburgh and I'm keen to get out on rock over the winter on the milder days (when ski touring or winter climbing are not really possible) however I don't really know where the best places to go are to find dry (and sheltered) places for bouldering? 

Any tips for good places to go at this time of year?

 

Removed User 27 Dec 2018
In reply to Elsier:

To be honest, Edinburgh boulderers generally go to Northumberland. Kyloe in the Woods is very sheltered and a good venue if you climb at a highish standard. My favourite is Doveholes.

Salisbury crags can be a bit of suntrap if there's no wind.

Hummel rocks at Gullane might be OK but I've never been there in winter.

OP Elsier 27 Dec 2018
In reply to Removed User:

Thanks, yep was thinking Northumberland, don't mind a bit of a drive, but wasn't sure which crags were quickest drying.

Is Kyloe In not damp and green in the winter?

Also don't really climb at a high standard, so might be too hard for me. (Max grade is font 6c)

I was also wondering about the bouldering on the Aberdeen sea cliffs? Don't know very much about the bouldering there, but I'm guessing it dries quickly and is sheltered in a westerly wind?

Not heard of Hummel Rocks, will check it out. Thanks!

 

Removed User 27 Dec 2018
In reply to Elsier:

Kyloe looks damp and shitty but is better than it looks.

A couple of Geordies once told us that they go there every October and paint it shit green to keep the Scots away. I think they were making it up though.

Aberdeen is quite a drive, I've never bouldered there. The Stone Country guide tells me that Boltsheugh at Newtonhill is "pleasant even in winter".

Weem might be a good call as well. It sits in a rain shadow and is often dry when other places are wet.

 CurlyStevo 28 Dec 2018
In reply to Elsier:

Problem with northumberland in winter is the sandstone is porous and can be damamaged much more easily if climbed damp. Also sheltered locations are likely to be slower drying. Make sure you leave it long enough after damp conditions.

 Ross L 28 Dec 2018
In reply to Elsier:

Portlethen (Craigmaroinn)

Portlethen (Craigmaroinn) is a good venue and has plenty to get after.  Quite a few of the problems are tidal so it would be worth trying to time a visit when the tide is at least partially out but there are still things to do at high tide.  The North East Outcrops guidebook has locations and descriptions for most of the problems so is well worth having if you go.

Finding your way to the top of the cliffs is slightly tricky; probably best to park at the pub/play park and walk down Craigmarn Road for ~200m.  You then take a right along the third cul-de-sac and at the end of this is a narrow path that goes round the back of a house (at first it seems like someone's driveway but when you get closer the path is more obvious).  If you zoom in on Google maps you can kind of make it out. 

OP Elsier 28 Dec 2018
In reply to Ross L:

Thanks, just checked my NE Outcrops guidebook, looks good.

 Wicamoi 28 Dec 2018
In reply to Elsier:

Garheugh Port near Newton Stewart is south-facing, quick-drying and composed of excellent greywacke. There's a wide variety of styles and a range of grades, with the best of the problems on a pair of particularly inspiring sea-smoothed boulders. Worth the trip just to run your fingers over Life is Beautiful.

And then of course there's always Wolfrcrag.

 CurlyStevo 30 Dec 2018
In reply to Elsier:

Luath's Stone Boulders is also well worth a visi. Not very sheltered and 300 m up, but fast drying. You should be fine with the right clothes and conditions for a winter visit,.

i can imagine it would be good on a sunny winters day as long as it’s positive temps.

Post edited at 12:45
 Wicamoi 30 Dec 2018
In reply to CurlyStevo:

A good winter bouldering venue: 300m above sea level on an exposed hillside/top in Aberdeenshire. You are clearly much tougher than me!

 

 CurlyStevo 31 Dec 2018
In reply to Wicamoi:

Yes I already highlighted that, but thanks for bringing it up again. It is perfectly feasible to boulder at this location in winter. A quick scan of the log books show entries throughout the winter.  Also bare in mind grit bouldering is also often quite high up and exposed and winter is considered one of the best times of year for bouldering. Perhaps best to visit when conditions are favorable as mentioned. Alternatively wait until early spring when the higher crags will still be in winter conditions. And the lower crags that are in condition are in limited supply and may still feel cold for cragging. There’s a lot of problems being ticked here in March I notice

 

Post edited at 05:37
 Stuart S 31 Dec 2018
In reply to Elsier:

> I was also wondering about the bouldering on the Aberdeen sea cliffs? Don't know very much about the bouldering there, but I'm guessing it dries quickly and is sheltered in a westerly wind?

As has been mentioned, Portlethen (Craigmarroin) and Boltsheugh are probably your best bets for sheltered bouldering in winter.  In fact, on a sunny winter's morning, both venues can be properly toasty!  You might also want to bring your rope and quickdraws for the sport climbing at Boltsheugh (some of the routes are short enough to be considered bolted bouldering!). 

Portlethen is the more extensive of the two, with a mixture of sea-washed boulders and sharper walls above the high tide line.  Problems are generally short, some have almost ridiculously low sit starts but there are also a few that are getting into highball territory.  There's plenty to go at below Font 6c for at least a couple of visits.

Boltsheugh problems tend to be eliminates and to start with, it can be hard to work out what's in and what's out.  However, there's a lot of steep rock with big holds on the upper tier, so if you enjoy simply moving on rock, it's good fun.  The UKC logbooks include links to some Vimeo videos showing the lines of problems on the lower section.

It's 5-10 mins drive from Boltsheugh to Portlethen so you could easily check out both areas on a reconnaissance visit.  Both areas dry quickly, particularly the free-standing boulders at Portlethen.  Portlethen is partly tidal, and neither would be a good option in high seas.

 


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