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Lucky Strike at Pembroke - gear?

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Simonboyce 27 Dec 2018

Hi - a friend of mine has set his sights on climbing Lucky Strike. Anyone know what gear you need to lead it? I’d like to buy him a good luck bit of gear. Somewhere I read small wires. Thanks in advance, Simon

1
 Bulls Crack 28 Dec 2018
In reply to Simonboyce:

Prussiks?  

 spenser 28 Dec 2018
In reply to Simonboyce:

I remember dangling from a red offset when it all became a bit much.

Prusiks are a good shout too.

 nikoid 28 Dec 2018
In reply to spenser:

From what I can remember you need to be careful to prevent gear lifting out so some small cams will be useful. Probably more of an issue for the second if he should come off. Long time ago though so I won't be able to advise on exact sizes.

 kevin stephens 28 Dec 2018
In reply to Simonboyce:

Long quickdraws/extenders

 1poundSOCKS 28 Dec 2018
In reply to Simonboyce:

Mainly small wires I seem to recall. But it was quite a few years ago. And is the route more serious for the second? Maybe something to keep in mind.

Fantastic route BTW.

 JimR 28 Dec 2018
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

I seconded it quite a few years ago, remember thinking I’d better not fall off????great route though. 

 Sam Beaton 28 Dec 2018
In reply to Simonboyce:

Lots and lots of small stuff and long extenders. I managed to place 21 runners. The last of which was the tape on a small friend tucked over a tiny spike. Oh, and remember 2 ropes and prussiks. We forgot and Ed had to swim out in his pants to go and get the second rope before we started. Awesome route though!

 GrahamD 28 Dec 2018
In reply to Simonboyce:

Loads of small wires (not micros, just ordinary wires).  Don't do as I did one February many years ago and put them all on one krab, then drop it in the sea half way along the route.  Split em up !

 HappyTrundler 31 Dec 2018
In reply to Simonboyce:

I remember placing quite a few short thin tape slings, sliding them down around cracked spikes, were good placements....they don't weigh anything so that is my tip !....

 Bulls Crack 31 Dec 2018
In reply to Simonboyce:

Maybe some waterproofs. When I abbing in waves were breaking over the rock you land on

 Martin Bennett 31 Dec 2018
In reply to kevin stephens:

> Long quickdraws/extenders

Not sure you had 'em when we did it Kev. Do you realise that was very nearly 20 years ago?

 kevin stephens 31 Dec 2018
In reply to Martin Bennett:

HaHa, I always had long extenders, only got shorter ones for sport climbing.  First time I did Lucky Strike was around 35 years ago

 philhilo 31 Dec 2018
In reply to Simonboyce:

Long extenders. I led it, took the rope in with gusto and had my second yelling as I promptly lifted half the gear out. Thankfully we had many grades in hand so falling off was unlikely. 


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