UKC

Hi all,

I'm looking for a new pair of climbing shoes and I have an odd foot shape so could do with some advice.

• Really narrow heels
• Normal width toe box
• Morton's toe
• Size UK 10 street shoes

The majority of my climbing is indoor bouldering (although occasionally venture outdoors). I'm mainly looking for something relatively comfortable that I can use for a full session, but not opposed to something slightly aggressive. Typically climbing around V4-V6.

I've been trying to do some research and have so far got as far as...

• Five Ten generally seem narrower
• Tenaya also have potential
• Don't bother with Scarpa and La Sportiva since they're wider
• Wild Country claim to be fairly narrow - has anyone tried these and got any thoughts?
• No idea about brands like So Ill, Mad Rock, Evolv, Ocun, Boldrini etc. Should I be looking at any of these?

Don't care how much they cost. Happy to order lots of pairs and return any that aren't suitable, I could just do a with a decent shortlist to actually start ordering.

Cheers!

Pete

Usual advice is to try and get to a shop. I guess you can't but with your list of requirements you my be doing a lot of ordering and returning. Having Moreton's toe makes it tricky to find a shoe for bouldering V6, seems to be that the more technical the show the more wedge shaped the toe box.

If you are ordering blind then laces do give you more adjustment than velcro.

At that grade (indoors) it really doesn’t matter much. Unless you plan on doing lot’s of heel hooks. And even those can be climbed with comfy, non agressive shoes. 

That said, perhaps I’m bad at giving advice as I don’t climb outside much harder than low F7s, and some times using the same comfy shoes I use indoors. 

That said, perhaps 5.10 Team would work for ya. I like mine (when I end up using them), but putting them on is a hassle. Anasize Pro might also be a good contender.

Ocun do different models for 3 foot shapes & are clear about size difference in length for sporty, normal or comfortable. Worth looking at their website. I bought a pair on line after looking at info & fit is very good. Previously i have used 5.10s.

Could be worth trying some of the "women's"/low volume models -- they often tend to have narrower heels in particular. 

Thanks very much - I'll check them out. I hadn't ever really considered Ocun before but this definitely makes them worth a look.

I had this thought previously but couldn't find any that went to a large enough size. E.g. the Five Ten Anasazi LV only goes to a size 8 from what I can see, the Women's La Sportivas and Scarpas only go to around an EU 41.

Are there any specific LV/women's models that you're aware of that would go to the right size?

I've found I have to size down a lot in Sportivas -- my street shoe size is 5 1/2 or 6 (around EU 39), and my comfortable Sportiva size is 36 or 36 1/2.

Depending on how much you need to size down in the different brands, you might just scrape into the top of the range.

Otherwise -- lace-ups might be worth looking at, because you can at least secure them so the heel won't come off, even if there's some dead space. I tie a knot in my shoe laces after the toebox, so I can cinch them tight round the midfoot while still leaving room for my cranky big toe joints.