UKC

Sport routes and Brexit

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 Andy Farnell 14 Jan 2019

If we leave the EU (hopefully not), will we have to bin off the French grading system for sport routes. No more of that Johnny foreigner grading rubbish, back to good old imperial grades.

All the guide books will need reprinting. 

All the routes given proper, sovereign grades.

Consenting adults E4 6a

Seventh Aardvark E5 6b

50 for 5 E6 6b

Dominatrix E6 6b

The Ashes E6 6b

Raindogs E7 6b

Zoolook E7 6c

Overnight Sensation E7 6c

Predator E8 6b

Revelations E7 7a

Hubble E9 7b

Liquid Ambar E9 7a

Rainshadow E10 7b

Overshadow E10 7b

Rainman E11 7b

Isn't that much better?

Andy F

 

2
 George Ormerod 14 Jan 2019
In reply to Andy Farnell:

But after the rapid and amazing US-UK free trade deal, they will all have to be YDS.

 Climber_Bill 14 Jan 2019
In reply to George Ormerod:

That makes it even easier. All the aforementioned routes will be 5.9.

TJB.

1
 john arran 14 Jan 2019
In reply to Andy Farnell:

Problem is that if we leave with no deal there will be regulatory divergence. After a few years of grade devaluation I think you'll find Raindogs will have gone up to E9 and Hubble will be worth E11. This will be great for Johnny Foreigner, who'll be able to tick off our hard routes more easily, but will make it much harder for British climbers when they go abroad, as they'll need to be climbing E9 before they have much chance of getting up 8a.

 Robert Durran 14 Jan 2019
In reply to George Ormerod:

> But after the rapid and amazing US-UK free trade deal, they will all have to be YDS.

I thought the idea was that these amazing trade deals would have the whole world falling over itself to adopt UK adjectival grades.

 

In reply to Robert Durran:

...Not only that, but there are all the "new markets" - hosts of new countries that are dying to pay us good money to use our superior grading system.

 innes 14 Jan 2019
In reply to Andy Farnell:

We'll be establishing new traditionally graded crags across the world.  It'll be amazing. We'll watch Norway loiter with only 9c to show for itself!  

 Olaf Prot 14 Jan 2019
In reply to Andy Farnell:

So what grade will Three Pebble Slab be?

 Ian W 14 Jan 2019
In reply to Olaf Prot:

> So what grade will Three Pebble Slab be?


Give him a chance; he's on the phone to Franco Cookson discussing it as we write.....

 Seymore Butt 14 Jan 2019
In reply to Andy Farnell:

We'll be able to bin all that foreign lager as well and keep to drinking real ale, instead of piss euro pop.

 joeldering 15 Jan 2019
In reply to Olaf Prot:

Highball B1

 DerwentDiluted 15 Jan 2019
In reply to Olaf Prot:

> So what grade will Three Pebble Slab be?

After a trade deal with Zimbabwe, about E100,000,000,000,000

 springfall2008 15 Jan 2019
In reply to Andy Farnell:

Once we bin the French grades we should remove all the bolts also, after they are just cheating!

 Simon Caldwell 15 Jan 2019
In reply to springfall2008:

> Once we bin the French grades we should remove all the bolts also, after they are just cheating!

You don't have to clip them

 Ramblin dave 15 Jan 2019
In reply to George Ormerod:

> But after the rapid and amazing US-UK free trade deal, they will all have to be YDS.

It's actually a free _trad_ deal, so it doesn't apply to sport or aid climbing.

1
 ianstevens 15 Jan 2019
In reply to joeldering:

> Highball B1

Best answer to this debate yet #make3pebbleaboulder(again)

 smally 15 Jan 2019
In reply to Andy Farnell:

But that still doesn't answer the Irish question. Will the Mournes and Fairhead retain their current status within the UK, or will French grades need to be applied? A massive devaluation for sure ( Ricky does say The Complete Scream is only F7a+ !).

And if we get Indyref 2, I reckon we can go back to the golden years of Scottish VS and V as ceiling grades.

 Steve Crowe Global Crag Moderator 15 Jan 2019
In reply to smally:

Back to the good old days of pocket sized guidebooks.

 

Post edited at 16:46
 springfall2008 15 Jan 2019
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

> You don't have to clip them


You don't have to visit Europe, but they still want to take away our EU passport....

Sorry I'm being silly

 DaveHK 15 Jan 2019
In reply to Olaf Prot:

> So what grade will Three Pebble Slab be?

I saw a car the other day with the frankly ridiculous registration plate of E3 TPS

 smally 15 Jan 2019
In reply to Steve Crowe:

Ha ha......could even go as far back as The Moratorium on routes in the NW !

 SC 15 Jan 2019
In reply to Andy Farnell:

Using Her Britanic Majesty's British grading system won't the lack of severity in sport routes mean that a route like Raindogs end up with a grade like E2 7c?   

With the bolts being manufactured to EU standards, will they need replacing with new ones to a British standard and made from British steel?

 Dave Cundy 16 Jan 2019
In reply to Andy Farnell:

You shouldn't worry about routes above E5 any more.  With the way export tariffs will make johnny-foreigner's fancy rock boots unaffordable, we'll all have to revert to climbing in plimsolls, or boots with clinkers.


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