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INTERVIEW: Repeat of the Century - Danny Parker on Century Crack

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 UKC News 21 Jan 2019
In October last year, Danny Parker from Sandy, Utah, made the third ascent of the infamous 120ft roof offwidth Century Crack 5.14b on the White Rim in Canyonlands, Utah, first freed by Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall in 2011.

Danny spent three years working toward the ascent, at one point writing it off as beyond his capabilities. However, when Pete and Tom caught wind of his efforts, they shared their training programme. We sent Danny some questions about climbing the line and his offwidth obsession...



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 SuperLee1985 21 Jan 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Cracking Effort!

 Michael Gordon 21 Jan 2019
In reply to UKC News:

In what way is it 'infamous'? What happened?!

7
In reply to Michael Gordon:

It's a horrendous crack that has swallowed up and spat back out some seriously strong climbers like Stevie!

 Chris Shepherd 21 Jan 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Looking forward to a female ascent!

1
 Michael Gordon 22 Jan 2019
In reply to Natalie Berry - UKC:

Oh OK. So just another hard route then...

23
 Blake 22 Jan 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Wow! it's infamous alright... that's one route I didn't think anyone would be rushing out an repeating any time soon! Mental.

 Mike Stretford 22 Jan 2019
In reply to Michael Gordon:

> Oh OK. So just another hard route then...

These hard offwidths have a brutal reputation, here's the worlds best climber on an easier crack than Century (and read the caption).

https://www.climbing.com/videos/adam-ondra-battles-5-13-indian-creek-offwid...

 Olaf Prot 22 Jan 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Looks easy, I mean he's not even using his arms?

 Michael Gordon 22 Jan 2019
In reply to Mike Stretford:

> These hard offwidths have a brutal reputation > 

I know. That doesn't make them 'infamous' though. It's just a misunderstanding of the meaning of the word.

13
In reply to Michael Gordon:

"Infamous-
well known for some bad quality or deed,

wicked; abominable."

Seems to fit an incredibly hard offwidth pretty well, especially one that has denied so many tough aspirant ascensionists. 

In reply to Michael Gordon:

I'm sure Pete, Tom and Danny could come up with a whole list of better adjectives for the route!

 Mike Stretford 22 Jan 2019
In reply to Michael Gordon:

> I know. That doesn't make them 'infamous' though. It's just a misunderstanding of the meaning of the word.

Context, Michael, context.

 Michael Gordon 22 Jan 2019
In reply to Mike Stretford:

Not convinced, sorry! I do like 'abominable' as an adjective. 

2
 steveriley 22 Jan 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Cor, blimey. And that Ondra movie is grim as you like!


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