UKC

If you are operating on the cusp of controlling/losing control of your fear response, it is highly valuable to have a few techniques up your sleeve to manage your fear when you really need to. This article talks through four specific practical fear management strategies to apply during your climb and exactly why they work. They can be used together or independently. I have used and taught these methods countless times with great success.

Next week, number 5: Shouting for someone to lower a rope down!

Just hope it is not the person at the top  who told me this story.

Lowers a rope to just out of reach of a panicking leader, then pulls it away, saying " climb it you B....."

True tale, not nice.

To my phantom disliker, I was not involved.

http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2015/06/positive-thinking-is-not-ne...

There may be a difference there, as MacLeod I think is talking about maximising performance rather than dealing with fear (obviously the two are connected though). I don't know if it is positive thinking or just a best stab at a realistic assessment, but I often find I think/say to myself 'that gear is good' when trying to commit to something. I find shouting down to my partner "the gear's good so no reason not to go for it" can also be handy now and again.

Maybe adopt the Jerry approach: 'The gear's rubbish, I'm about to fall off but I'm one hell of a gal/guy'

That'll be £50

I have one partner with a bizarre habit: when poised beneath a crux section on lead, he sometimes insists I take  photograph. But I say, "it won't come out, all I can see is your arse and there's too much backlighting". Response "Look I'm not going on until you take a photograph so just take one anyway!'

But maybe this is not so strange. When I am on lead at such moments I often seek assurance from my belayer - "Are you with me?". Given that all the rest is in order (knots, gear etc) finally what we need is  that critical knowledge 'I am not alone' - idem for so many other trials of life   

What's wrong with shaking like a shitting dog for a while and then manning up?

That second photo is a brilliant example of mid-climb fear ("Elaine smiling her way ... ") ... had the photo editor read the article?