UKC

Hi guys, 

I’ve been using a pair of Scarpa Phantom Ultras for the past 9 years and they’ve been great, except that the past two seasons I’ve noticed my feet becoming colder than I am comfortable with (f£&@ing freezing, infact). This could be due to boots just wearing out, but also due to health issues too. 

If you were in the market for boots, with warmth being a priority, where would you start? I was looking at the La Sportiva G2 SM’s, but wondering of that would be overkill. Anyone used them for Scottish Winter Grades V and upwards? 

Thanks for help, 

kyle. 

If you want a single boot hold on till next season when the new Scarpa Phantom Tech's will be coming out, details released next week at ISPO. Supposed to be warmer than current Guide's/Tech's and lighter too. 

The G2's are probably the best double boot for Scotland, the Phantom 6000's sole is too thin for Scotland it will wear out quickly I imagine like the previous version of the Phantom Tech.

Never been sold in the UK, but if you are on holiday somewhere or see a bargain on an EU webshop, the La Sportiva Baruntse are fiery warm and mine seem pretty hard wearing. Basically a double Nepal Extreme. The ankle is quite supportive compared to modern light boots, but I've happily climbed vertical ice in them in Norway and Finland. Mine haven't had much use since I moved back to the UK, but I did wear them during the beast from the East last winter on grade III/IV Welsh ice and ended up with ridiculously warm feet all day! I haven't, but happily would use them in Scotland in cold conditions.

I believe Phantom 6000's and G2's are equally warm. I have the 6000's which I choose mainly out of availability in Greenland. However, I will have to say that the outer sole is worryingly thin for anything but snow and ice. I'm now in the market for a boot for more technical ice climbing in Rjukan and similar destinations, and have had a look at the Phantom Tech's and the G5's. The soles of the La Sportivas are looking way more sturdy for walking and climbing on rock terrain, and I really like their special lacing system that completely lock down my heels. A note on sizes. My foot is size 43 for everything but Scarpa mountain boots. My Rebel Pro's are size 43, but they had inner soles size 42 when I bought them default which is more true to size. They did feel a tight in the shop, but stupidly I bought them anyway, which explains why my toenails are now black from front pointing . My 6000's are size 45, and they fit me really well...

I have Scarpa Phantom 6000s and they keep my cold feet nice and warm.  They are a bit cumbersome for ice climbing but am still getting up WI4+ in them so clearly not a major issue.  I have also had no issues with longevity including using them on rock in the alps last year (which was a bit overkill but they are nice and stiff on edges).  My only comment is to regularly lubricate (I use silicon spray) the zip.

Think these are no longer in production. 

They showed up on one of LS's websites when I googled - might have been LS North America. And Bergzeit have them in lots of sizes: https://www.bergzeit.co.uk/baruntse-boots/

It's odd though that they never more popular. They are said to be as warm as Spantiks and they have a lacing system that doesn't break quickly! ...And if it does break can be fixed with a new pair of laces.

I saw some on a shelf in the Lakes once! 

Recently bought a pair if Boreal Arwas, by a long way the warmest winter boot I have had, warmer than La Sportiva Nepals, Scarpa Triolet, Zamberlan Extreme Pro.

ArcTeryx double boot. Similar dimensions to Guide but warmer. G2SM and 6000 are for 5000-6000m peaks. Deadbird is below 5000. 

In reply to Kyle Warlow:

I have, Phantom Guides and Baruntses. I wouldn't wear Baruntse for Scottish winter. I find them very heavy, bulky and lack sensitivity. I've climbed steep terrain in them but its not as enjoyable as wearing Guides. 

A friend of mine had Phantom Ultras and found them too cold but he is now perfectly happy with Phantom Guides. The new Techs are slightly warmer than Guides so either of these could be good choices. 

Double boots are big and heavy! I'd go for a warm single boot. Possibly with smartwool socks. Possibly with an additional gaiter. 

Thanks for all the advice so far guys. Really appreciated. 

All the best, 

Kyle