UKC

This week's Friday Night Video is from UKC regular David Linnett. The short clip features Johnny Dawes climbing the Roaches classic Chalkstorm, although in Johnny's modern style: hands-free.

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In reply to UKC News:

I always thought finger strength is over rated...

In reply to UKC News:

Can you imagine not knowing who he is and asking him for route-beta?

"Left foot up, then right foot, then left, then right, then left, then right....!"

In reply to UKC News:

Really enjoyed that! Even in advancing years (with extra ballast and a bald spot?!) JD effortlessly makes me feel inferior, physically and mentally. Also enjoyed his description of the bloke in the waxed black jacket (Dougy?)

:oD

In reply to UKC News:

Excellent filming yet again showcasing British climbers and climbing at their best!!

In reply to UKC News:

Wow. Actually made an involuntary noise on seeing the Roaches from the air!

In reply to Shani:

I can't imagine Johnny would describe it in such pedestrian terms!

In reply to UKC News:

I've seen another Bald Eagle production video, can't remember where or what but I remember enjoying it too. 

I need to get back to the Roaches.

In reply to UKC News:

Shouldn't this be on UKHillWalking???

Steve

In reply to Phantom Disliker:

Many thanks for your positive vibes and indeed Johnny was referring to the Lord of the Roaches, Doug Moller, in his narration! Regarding Dougie and unsurprisingly for someone of advanced years, he is quite frail nowadays but still hanging in there though I believe he has been relocated to a care home from his remote Staffordshire cottage. Doug was an amazing character and I had the pleasure of meeting him in 2008 when he dropped into Rockhall Cottage where I made him a brew with a big slab of cake. Dougie and I had a good blether for an hour or so where he reminisced about his times, good and bad, in the cottage with his late wife Annie. An amazing guy!  Cheers Dave

In reply to Gone for good:

Thanks a million for the kind words Wanderer100 muchly appreciated! Cheers Dave

In reply to gooberman-hill:

Ha genius! Cheers Dave

In reply to UKC News:

Just wondering if Obsession was tried during the same visit, does anybody know? Conditions look kinda warm.

In reply to UKC News:

I remember this one going up on your youtube channel. I only subscribe to a few on there but new vids are a moment of excitement. We've been to a couple of places based on those vids. Great work, please keep making them.

In reply to BALD EAGLE:

The film really really captures the Roaches and Johnny’s brilliance really well.

there’s a section in the film where the crag has the title Chalkstorm E3 5C but the line drawn on the crag has a big dog leg out to the left onto the little ledge, and then back onto Chalkstorm higher up, missing out the 5c crux of Chalkstorm which goes straight up over the overlap. Might be a bit confusing if you haven’t done it. That dog leg is often done to put in a side runner, and then step back in above the overlap, but done that way is maybe HVS 5a ish

still brilliant film though!

paul

In reply to UKC News:

Mad.

In reply to paul_in_cumbria:

Thanks, worth mentioning. I was thinking there's a grit E3 slab even I might have the bottle to try. Obviously with some good pro placed high in the crack. Maybe not for me then...

In reply to Mark Collins:

Hi Mark I filmed this vid with Johnny one weekend in June 2018 and it was seriously hot, probably in the high twenties by mid afternoon. Johnny tried "walking" up the E3 San Malas on the Skyline on the Saturday afternoon, but it was just too hot and sweaty so unsurprisingly we binned that plan. So we tried Chalkstorm as early as possible on the Sunday morning when it was still vaguely cool and thankfully it all came together!

Incidentally I think Mr Dawes has "walked" Obsession but I'm not 100% sure on that. And we should be teaming up for another filming project in the next couple of months so watch this space...

Cheers Dave

In reply to paul_in_cumbria:

Yeah he missed out the hard bit.

In reply to BALD EAGLE:

Thanks Dave.

I heard a rumour that Johnny attempted to walk Obsession in the past and fell off, busting his ankle when he caught his laces in the Piece of Mind Tree roots, although I've probably got that all wrong. Don't think the tree is even there now.

Best of luck with the next project.

In reply to Mark Collins:

I remember him telling me that story. I think he was just soloing it at the end of a long day, not doing it hands free.

In reply to BALD EAGLE:

So it was probably you with JD that I bumped into when I pulled over the top that day.  

In reply to olddirtydoggy:

Hey Mr Doggy thanks a million for taking the time to post your kind words and a few more climbing film projects are in the pipeline over the coming months so watch this space!  

Cheers 

Dave

In reply to paul_in_cumbria:

Hi Paul many thanks for your kind feedback and I really appreciate your appreciation! The animated route line that I created was as close to the line which Johnny "walked" up and no doubt deviates a wee bit to the absolute true line of the route. Still a mighty fine effort from Mr Dawes and I'm glad you enjoyed the vid!  

Cheers

Dave

In reply to paul_in_cumbria:

The usual side runner reduces it to E1 5c.

Was thinking you'd be bound to know that, but then I thought maybe not, that side of the Peak's a long way from Sheffield

Also, although JD was offline for the start of the slab, I couldn't see from the video whether he missed the crux move which I remember as being getting stood on the slopers just below the bottom of the flake.

Still very impressive regardless of line.

Brilliant, but can we get JD a shirt sponsor, please?

In reply to Rad:

Why, are you getting too aroused before church on a Sunday morning?

In reply to alan moore:

That was by far the best part for me

In reply to Shani:

Good one. My beta would be uhhhhh uhhhhhhhhhhhhhh eeeeeeeeh watch the rope! I'm coming off! Help! then squeaking and scraping and slithering sounds then a loud thud 

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

Worth doing with the (bomb proof) side runner. Place it (fairly obvious where) and then come down a move or two to move right onto the proper line below all the hard moves; below the overlap.

Important bit...

Make sure your belayer stands on the left below the side runner and not below the line of the route. This reduces the chances of you getting your foot twisted in the rope when you fluff the crux and take an easy "safe" fall down the slab.

I'd done the route previously on more than one occasion. Torn ligaments take several months to heal

In reply to BALD EAGLE:

Great ariel shots, brochure selling the Roaches.

Unfortunately they also show how bad the erosion is. Top path needs to be paved similar to how it's been done from Roche End.

In reply to Michael Hood:

I did lead it, prob 35 years ago, only soloed since. Agreed, with side runner, E1 5c (in which case you then go back across under the overlap and straight up), but as I said in my post, if you follow the route diagram from the film and step back in above the overlap, it’s easier. My guess is 5a

In reply to UKC News:

Lovely little film Dave. Even having seen the body position balance machine at close quarters, the fluidity is still staggering. The line is totally unimportant. Not a climbing film, just tremendous fun!

james

In reply to Dave Garnett:

Hi Dave

Just checked your profile pic and the face looks familiar! Were you climbing on the "scorchio" Saturday by San Melas on the Roaches Skyline when our paths crossed?

Cheers

Dave

In reply to Michael Hood:

Thanks a million Michael and the aerials came out quite nicely and complimented the vid I hope. And yes the erosion of the path, especially on the top tier is pretty bad so hopefully this will be paved sometime in the near future so the surrounding area can recover! Mind you I have not been to the Roaches since the fire so hopefully nature is working her magic around the forest and all...

Cheers

Dave

In reply to james mann:

Thanks a million James and muchly appreciated! Cheers Dave

In reply to BALD EAGLE:

Well, it was mid-summer and Johnny was there with his rucksack full of books, someone with a blue bandanna on his head, and apparently there had been hands-free lunacy happening on San Melas... does this sound familiar?

In reply to Dave Garnett:

Yup all of that sounds familiar Dave! Especially the bit about the hands free lunacy on San Melas...  Cheers Dave

In reply to Mark Collins:

Pretty sure I remember reading about a JD no handed ascent of Obsession Fatale somewhere.

In reply to Neil Henson:

That would be truly impressive, since the crux is a sort of horrible mantelshelf!

In reply to Dave Garnett:

Think his no handed ascent was done on a top rope, rather than solo. Can't remember where I read about it though (possible Western Grit guide).

In reply to Neil Henson:

Hi Neil

I am 99.9% sure you are correct about the no-handed ascent of Obsession Fatale on a top rope. Johnny and I recorded his opening narration in my video editing room, ably assisted by a bottle of red wine (or two!) earlier this year. I'm sure he talked about this ascent along with a myriad of other topics relating to the Roaches and beyond! And as the vino tinto flowed the narration got ever funnier, but probably less usable and unsurprisingly I ended up using the first take on the vid...

Cheers

Dave    

In reply to BALD EAGLE:

Hi Dave,

I remember now where I heard this from. It was from Johnny himself back in 2011 when a group of us spent the day climbing with him at Froggatt as part of an organised event.

He was bemoaning the fact that he couldn't generate sponsorship from a climbing shoe manufacturer(s), despite having climbed Obsession Fatale no handed. Apologies to Johnny if I have taken this out of context, but that is how I remembered it.

Enjoyed reading your tale about the opening narration. Keep the great films coming.

Neil