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Suggestions for Sport Multi-Pitch Venues - Alps

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 TommyKips 18 Mar 2019

I'm looking to head around the alps August/September time for a few weeks going anywhere in France, Switzerland and Italy and I would really appreciate some suggestions for multi-pitch sport areas or useful guidebooks

Thanks!

Tom 

 Carless 19 Mar 2019
In reply to TommyKips:

Loads around Chamonix, Aguilles Rouges, Barberine, etc

Switzerland: Grimselpass, Sustenpass, etc

Might also be useful if you gave a grade spread

Post edited at 17:02
In reply to TommyKips:

Hi, 

It would be good to know your grade range, to give ideas,

There is quite a lot around the Briançon & Écrins area at all grades.

Ailefroide Granite slabs all well bolted, August is nice but can be busy, September is a great time to visit as its quieter, routes around the 200-400m mix of grade but mainly in the 6's and under, a great campsite in the valley.

Massif des Cerces this is an area north of Briançon with limestone towers and faces, some amazing climbing some of the lower grade stuff is trad or very spaced bolting, most stuff in the 6's and above is bolted with stuff up to 7b+/7c most around 300, 400m, August is good as it high up and a lot of the face's face north, september can be ok, the best thing about this area is its very quite you early see anyone, but the climbing is great, but to get this you have to walk in up to 1/2 hours

Tenailles is the three towers you can see from Briançon, nice climbing 300m again. 

Tête d'Aval is great some big route 650m, really stunning place, and the abseil off the Grand toit is worth it, routes from low 6 up to 7's August can be to hot its faces south and your on it all day.

Pontail is valley multi pitch easy access, around the 200m south face and a real sun trap.

la bans valley some nice climbing and a great easy bolted ridge 500m 5c max 5 oblige 500m contreforts de coste-counier.

Sélé valley has some hard test pieces and some roses in th 6's 400m the bolting is more spaces and some trad gear maybe needed to back it up,

Écrins park lots of big alpine rock many of it bolted,

The guide book is Oisans Nouveau Oisans Sauvage by Michel Cambon, it hard to get out side this area, I live here and happy to help with route advice etc.

have a great trip where ever you go cheers Rob

 Skyfall 19 Mar 2019
In reply to TommyKips:

Handegg/Furkha -  long bolted granite slabs / walls.

ailefroide - similar in the Ecrins.

both excellent and must do venues.

 tjekel 20 Mar 2019
In reply to TommyKips:

If switzerland and multipich limstone, I tend to recommend Sanetsch, Engelhörner, and Gastlosen. For granite, and high alpine surroundings, it is difficult to beat Furka Pass. Lots of ligerature avaible with filidor.ch.

A wealth of multipitch limestone sports availlable in Austria and Germany as well... Wilder Kaiser, Berchtesgaden, Dachstein come to mind. 


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