UKC

This week's Friday Night Video covers Dave MacLeod's 2010 ascent of The Indian Face, on Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy). The film was featured as an extra on Hot Aches Productions Long Hope DVD and tells the tale of Dave climbing the worlds most notorious E9. 

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In reply to UKC News:

That was brilliant. First film I've seen that really makes it clear how terrifyingly sketchy that thing is.

In reply to AlanLittle:

 Indeed, I found Dave's breathing on the sound track during the climb haunting.

In reply to UKC News:

Spots of rain on the lens at the top out 🤦‍♂️🥳

In reply to UKC News:

Two things.

1) What a brilliant piece of filming and more importantly, climbing.

2) Scarpa, FFS keep making brilliant shoes that work amazingly one every situation. Like the Stix. And stop changing them. We like them as they are.

But mostly 1)

Andy F

In reply to Andy Farnell:

Absolutely nothing to add to 1). The way he motors through that top section is breathtakingly incredible. It also increased my amazement at the audacity and capability of Dawes, who, after all, did not have the prior knowledge that the thing was actually humanly possible.

In reply to UKC News:

Superb film, and what a great climb. It looks so sustained. And the protection looked (in the film) so sketchy... my heart was in my mouth half the time, sitting here on my sofa. Great filming too - I'm sure it's really hard to film that

In reply to McHeath:

Well, he did, obviously, having top-roped it first.

jcm

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Physically yes, but that's not the main point.

In reply to Andy Farnell:

Yes, mostly 1, totally agree about the Styx.

3) what a measured, intelligent bloke Dave MAC comes across as.

In reply to UKC News:

Scary viewing. Even scarier is thinking back to Johnny doing it, with half that amount of gear and slapping through the final crux moves after the rest.

In reply to UKC News:

Well. That was f*cking harrowing.

In reply to UKC News:

Very tense indeed. As I was watching I pondered the fact that someone is hanging on a rope nearby. Does that make it less lonely or does it just increase the pressure? I suppose it could conceivably mean a rescue could be realatively quick and safe compared with his belayer having to untie and somehow get to the top to ab. down while the climber sweats and waits? Its not to down play the seriousness of filmed ascents in any way but I am quite curious to know if it changes the nature of the experience. I am guessing JD was up there on his own.

In reply to balnakiel:

Check out the actual first ascent photos: https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6644.msg235988.html#msg23598...

In reply to UKC News:

Loved that. Not only showed how terrifying the route is, but also how excellent it looks. And Dave came across well again, thoughtful and measured as well as skilled and talented. Two odd things occurred to me, at one point the belayer said something like "That's you back on belay" while Dave was about halfway, why was he off belay and for how long? And when he was talking to camera in the 1st half that wee twig on his shoulder really bugged me! :-D

In reply to jon:

Wow thanks for posting this - great pictures -  looks lonely as hell for the leader.

In reply to balnakiel:

I should just add, they're not my photos.

In reply to aln:

Claire just had to use two hands to tie down the skyhook. Planned beforehand. So not off belay in the strict sense, but she just meant she had completed that task and was back to having a hand on the ATC. 

In reply to Dave MacLeod:

Ah OK. Thanks for the reply.