UKC

Hi all

Looking at buying a pair of mountain boots with the aim of using in the Alps in the summer and some winter weekends in Scotland.

I've been led to believe I need a stiff mountain boot for this (B2 or above), but am unsure if...

1. a B2 would limit what I could use it for and so I should be looking at very stiff B3 boots, or
2. if B3 would be overkill and I should stick to B2, or
3. if it makes no difference

In terms of experience and ambition... I've spent my time doing a mixture of rock climbing and hill walking/scrambling in the UK. I spent a week in the alps with a guide last year and loved it and spending another week there this year, and would like to try some mixed climbing in Scotland this winter

Fully aware that the best boot is the one that fits, and that I'm most likely going to be the limiting factor in what I climb and not my footwear (providing it fits!)...  Having said that would be frustrating if buying B2 boots now meant I couldn't use them for harder climbing in the future, or for trying mixed / ice climbs. I'm 85kg, size 11 feet if that's important.

Thanks to anyone that's read this far, and grateful for any advice you might have!

L

B3 are great for full on hard steep ice, but shocking for walking in. If you are planning on doing a season of steep ice in Norway they would be worth it.

For 99% of what you would want(or be able to do) in the Alps B2s will do the job, and will keep doing the job. I use my B2s all year round, as they are so versatile.

Personally I’d think a decent set of B2s would be fine - they’ll take a crampon for the occasional Scotland trips and be fine for snow gullies. Full B3 only really needed when doing proper steep front-pointing.

Modern b3s can be pretty good to walk in. If they fit your feet and they have your size outside have mt blanc pros on sale at nearly half price.

For most Alpine summer stuff B2s will be fine and preferable.  B2s will also be fine on easy Scottish winter stuff, i.e. up to grade 2 neve slopes and ridges.

However, you mention Scottish mixed climbing which sounds like a more serious ambition to me.  If this is much more than mixed ridges then I think you need B3s. The last thing you want is crampons popping off or more likely, your boots are not rigid enough to get good feet placements.

You also need to bear in mind that there are B2s there are pretty flexible so closer to B1s.  The B2 classification is therefore not all it may seem so you need to look at each boot carefully.

Re the walking in, modern B3s in my view are perfectly fine for the walk in.  I use Scarpa Phantom 6000s which are a pretty full on B3 boot and find them perfectly fine for walk ins (including using them on Ben Nevis so the full walk in to the north face).  The bigger issue is they wear more quickly as the sole is not designed for long walk ins unless on snow.

Finally, your ambition now might not be to get into too serious ground but the bug will grab you (guaranteed) and you might quickly regret not getting a B3 or B2/B3.

As mentioned the Scarpa Mont Blanc Pro GTX are nearly half price now (I assume as a replacement will be coming out soon) and are a B2/3 so are excellent value and could well suit you ideally (if they fit well).

I agree with what most of the above posters have said about B2 v B3, I've climbed up to grade III Scottish and  PD Alpine in B2 boots.

I would add though, that how flexible a boot is is also dependant upon size. If you have very small feet a B2 boot can feel very stiff, and if you have huge feet, a B2 boot can be quite (relatively speaking) bendy!

I wouldn't summer climb in my winter B2 boots - too hot, too heavy, too slow.

I do use my (much lighter and uninsulated) B2 for summer alpine and occasionally winter climbing.

For me it's weight and heat rather than stiffness that matters.