UKC

Just seen this and thought it was worth sharing. New trad 8c+.

https://stories.27crags.com/index/one-of-the-worlds-hardest-trad-routes-ope...

I saw that too. Tomi has been the best climber, or one of the best climbers, in the country for what feels like forever - but despite some very hard routes internationally, doesn't seem to have ever really courted publicity. He's a carpenter by profession I think so I'm sure has to do other things besides just train, which makes this even more impressive.

It says the topo will soon be on 27crags so that's good because currently it seems to be this slightly odd tradition that Finland has developed of certain crags not being shared with the general public. This is often explained as connected to access, but obviously certain people agree access with the landowner, so its not climbing per se that is the problem, but the worry that too many, or the wrong type of people, might go. But you end up with "secret crags" where word slowly leak out as friends take other friends who then take other friends but where there is no topo.

The tradition of not sharing project crags is rather simple... the persons have put the effort in and do not wish to have their projects stolen.

Also some landowners have pretty strict rules. I know a few places that are officially closed, because the rules are so complext that it is easier for the developper to just state that climbing there is not possible...


That said, the crag where Tomi climbed this line, the topo is going to be rather easy... only one line there. AFAIK it's just next to the road, so really easy access and I was lookin' at it earlier this spring when I drove past it...

I can't believe anyone was going to be able to nick this project! I know Nalle once in a while puts a rope on, but does he ever place nuts?

Yes, quite often actually...
https://www.instagram.com/p/BxzmfZGhqad/

Afaik that one ain't easy either, mid to low f8 I think.

I heard an interview with him a while back where he talked about doing Silbergeier (multipitch 8b in the Rätikon) during the Burden of Dreams project where he had basically not done more than three moves at a time for months. But, as he said, when you've been trying Burden of Dreams the moves on an 8b endurance route feel so totally easy ...

Alvi has made a rather nice short film about Nalle. The teaser can be seen here.  vimeo.com/264930386

It contains Nalle climbing something in Rätikon.

BTW... yer slow...
https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rocktalk/a_new_contender_for_the_hardest_...