UKC

Top roping away from southern sandstone

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 GSM123 19 Jun 2019

Let me start by apologising for top roping before I take any flak.

Me and my climbing partner are both based in Sussex so our local craggs are all southern sandstone and you can only us tope rope so we have no lead climbing experience. We are looking to travel outside of the area to get some experience on different rocks types. Just looking for suggestions on where we can top rope with the aim to lead in the future.

thanks

Post edited at 12:58
 spenser 19 Jun 2019
In reply to GSM123:

No need to apologise for top roping as long as you rig the rope correctly so you don't wear rope grooves into the top and don't damage delicate footholds on routes by flailing your way up things which are far too hard for you. 

The gritstone crags of the Peak District would be a natural choice (someone may mention Harborough Rocks too which would be a good shout if it's a still and cloudless day, the midges in the Peak District are horrible! Thankfully they seem to have a preference for gritstone crags), there are also some suitable crags on Dartmoor and The Gower. I suspect you would also find some suitable stuff around Bristol and the Wye Valley, however I haven't climbed in the area so can't say with any confidence.

OP GSM123 19 Jun 2019
In reply to spenser:

Thanks for the suggestions. I have climbed a few routes on Sheeps Tor in Dartmoor so might head back, Harborough Rocks looks interesting though. Are there Preplaced bolts or would we be rigging to boulders?

Post edited at 13:55
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 19 Jun 2019
In reply to GSM123:

> Thanks for the suggestions. I have climbed a few routes on Sheeps Tor in Dartmoor so might head back, Harborough Rocks locks interesting though. Are the Preplaced bolts or would we be rigging to boulders?

 
There are no preplaced bolts on top of any of the Peak trad crags, some have useful boulders but most don't. You need to get some long slings and small set of nuts, and learn how to used them to rig a belay,

Chris

 spenser 19 Jun 2019
In reply to GSM123:

All of the areas suggested would need you to place traditional anchors (i.e. a mix of wires and cams, along with slinging the occasional boulder).

In all honesty I would recommend hiring an instructor to teach you to lead, it will enormously open up the number of places you can go climbing and in my view is far more enjoyable too! You will probably find yourself wanting to learn the skills sooner or later anyway.

OP GSM123 19 Jun 2019
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Okay thanks for the advice.

OP GSM123 19 Jun 2019
In reply to spenser:

That's absolutely my aim for the not to distant future. I really enjoy southern sandstone but I can be limiting.

 thomasadixon 19 Jun 2019
In reply to GSM123:

Trym Valley (elephant rock) is worth a visit if not vegetated (didn’t used to be, but not been in a while).  Goblin Combe would be good - bit of a walk round to the top but trees for top roping in most places.

1
 two_tapirs 19 Jun 2019
In reply to GSM123:

If you're after a Peak crag with bolts, head to the crag that's Marmite to UKC: Horseshoe quarry.  Plenty of routes across all grades.  

Learn how to thread the lower off before you go, there are ground level boulders with practice lower offs on as well.

As has been said though; take a learn to lead course to reduce the chances of injury/embarrassment 

3
 steveb2006 19 Jun 2019
In reply to two_tapirs:

You have to lead the routes at horsehsoe first to set up a top rope (ok you could just about do it by leaning over from top but tricky and hard to tell exactly what route you are ontop of).

In reply to GSM123:

A couple of good top roping venues are:

Nesscliffe - possibly best crag in the world, if not shropshire. Mostly easy access to the top, usually with convenient trees for anchors. If you’re familiar with southern sandstone you should know the tekkers for protecting the rock. Quarried sandstone with some impressive aretes, corners and walls. Top roping there is accepted as part of the local tradition.

World’s End, Llangollen - again, loads of trees at the top and easy access. Good diverse range of grades and features.

2
 spenser 19 Jun 2019
In reply to Wyre Forest Illuminati:

Looking at the grades in the OP's logbook I doubt that Nesscliffe would be a good place to visit as the vast majority of the routes there will be too hard. We don't need to banish top ropers to specific crags as long as they take care to look after them as much as more experienced climbers do/ should.

 Trangia 19 Jun 2019
In reply to GSM123:

The Lower Cliff at Dancing Ledges near Swanage is ideal for both top roping and learning to lead, and is a relatively short drive from the Sussex, between 2 and 3 hours depending on traffic.

In reply to spenser:

I’m not banishing anyone anywhere but if the OP wants a quality crag with simple to set up belays at the top then ness is a good place. Almost built for TRs! There are some easier propositions there (e.g straight talk/ red square) and They did mention ideas for the future. 

 Chris Ebbutt 19 Jun 2019
In reply to GSM123:

can recommend

Daddyhole Upper Cliff

if you are used to southern sandstone top rope set up, you will find it easy at Daddyhole Upper as there are large steel fence posts every 6 feet along the top, an easy safe 3 min walk round to the base and a maximum of 22m in height so all good with a 50m rope. The fence is upto 6 m back from the edge so static for rigging would be useful but I assume you have this or similar from southern sandstone.

Grades from VD to E5, so something for everyone and definitely no polish, but helmets a good idea and keep the top carabiner well over the edge to avoid dislodging anything from the top. Dries very fast.

have fun

Chris

 two_tapirs 20 Jun 2019
In reply to steveb2006:

> You have to lead the routes at horsehsoe first to set up a top rope (ok you could just about do it by leaning over from top but tricky and hard to tell exactly what route you are ontop of).

yup, my mistake as I'd misread a reply by GSM123 and took it that they were interested in bolted routes.

100% correct that trying to rig a rope from above at Horseshoe isn't a good idea

 Chris Ebbutt 20 Jun 2019

The DewerstoneIn reply to GSM123:

If you do make it to Devon, then for some Dartmoor granite, the left hand end of the Dewerstone is good for toproping upto 25m in height with lots of big trees to set up top ropes, very similar to southern sandstone and  a mix of grades up to E2. In combination with Daddyhole Upper this would give you a great weekend of easy to set up top rope climbing on two rock types in contrast to each other and sandstone.

Chris

 mikehenesy 21 Jun 2019
In reply to Chris Ebbutt:

You're close to Swanage as mentioned and you could also try Subliminal. There are in-place belay stakes set maybe 20 ft? back from the edge, so another short rope would be useful. You'll also need to ab down to the (above) sea level platform which makes it a bit more exciting but it's still pretty friendly. And of course there are those weird holds that have edges too them (Subliminal was the first place I climbed beyond the sandstone).


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