UKC

Tryfan

hi what size cams (if any ) are needed on grooved arête cheers 

🧗🏻‍♂️🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿💪🏻

Davy 

I can't remember if I placed any cams on grooved arete. These routes were all opened up long before cams were invented, take a rack of nuts and a few hexes and I'm sure you'll find plenty of gear placements.

and a few slings as well as there are plenty of spikes to sling.

Good suggestion. Amazing how climbers who began after the seventies don't even think about natural runners like spikes and threads. I seconded a shortish pitch in The Lakes with a modern climber who's perfectly competent, but he faffed around for ages placing several poor nuts whilst completely ignoring the two perfect fist sized spikes which alone would have given him perfect protection in seconds.

You won't need cams on GA but if you're going to anyway, my go to mountain route (vdiff and down) cams would be 0.75, 1 and 2. that's green, red and yellow in DMM/universal new cam talk

Pretty sure I did it before I owned those cams and it was fine. North Wales eats offset nuts so take those I reckon.

Have a great climb! Fantastic route

That’s great advice thanks  bud ✌🏻 It’s wales climbing for next few months then Spain France alpine next 🧗🏻‍♂️✌🏻💪🏻

As others have said, you don’t need any cams for GA. I climbed it at Easter and at no point wished I had any cams. 

A full set of nuts (1-11), some hexes, plenty of quickdraws and a few slings will be sufficient.

I’ve also got a half set (6) of Wild Country offset nuts which are super light and a great addition to my rack. They are very versatile and I’ve been glad of them on a few occasions!  Rock & Run have got a good deal on them at the moment at £42.50.

It’s a brilliant route. Have fun!

Nice 1 mate - have a full set of nuts 1-11 and have some dmm off set nuts 7-11 sizes. Also got the wC cocs ( hexes) like those ! Cheers again bud 

When I climbed it recently, I'm pretty sure I used medium-sized cams toward the top of the Groove pitch, below the Haven (pitch 5 in most descriptions). My memory is that the top of the groove is composed of parallel plates of rock. That's a long pitch and probably the trickiest in terms of spacing your gear and rope work, but I think it could easily be split in two by belaying just before it starts to steepen.

Davy, the first ascent was achieved long before cams and whilst I fully endorse the need to stay safe it’s easy to say you won’t need more than a basic rack of nuts and, as the man said, a good few slings.

I remember the fist time I led it, emptying almost all of my rack into that pitch. No cams though. 

From a mediocre (on a good day) climber I’d advise a couple of sets of nuts - especially in the mid sizes - a few bigger hexes and 2 or 3 slings for runners (additional to any carried for belays). 

That's everyone who started clinbing in the last 40 years! 

I wasn't born until the eighties, but I've never had a problem using slings, to be honest. Love a good thread, if it's not too pumpy to place. I wouldn't be too eager to condemn "the youth today", if I were you, as it tends to be a symptom associated with old farts.

I started climbing outdoors around 2008. I placed about 10 sling runners on Saturday.