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Multipitch Trad Climbing Shoes

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 stanante 02 Jul 2019

So I am in an apparent dilemma with finding some appropriate climbing shoes.

I used to have a pair of Anasazi Verde's that fit incredibly well and the rubber on the old 5.10's was amazing. I had great tactile feedback on the rock and there wasn't a foothold that I didn't know how they would respond. In short, I knew their boundaries to a high degree. I sent them to be resoled but sadly after 2 months of waiting The Climbing Academy said I'd have to wait another 2+ months, by which time most of the summer will be over.

I've spent about 6 hours trying on shoes all over the place and just feeling pissed off by the fact that everything seems downturned and 4+mm of rubber, so I can't feel shit under my toes.

Thinking of just getting some soft beginner shoes that will be comfortable and tactile to cater me for some epic multipitch routes I'm planning in Snowdonia in a few weeks.

Need suggestions. Any suggestions. All is helpful at this stage.

 acrkirby 03 Jul 2019
In reply to stanante:

Only one answer, TC Pros.

Cracks, Super check.

Tiny smears, check.

Edging, check.

Wear for 15 pitches without rest and still feel comfy, check.

There's a reason everyone in Yosemite and Squamish wears these

1
 OwenM 03 Jul 2019
In reply to stanante:

What size Verde's are you?

In reply to stanante:

have you tried the Scarpa Maestro?

For me and my foot shape they are the best pair of trad shoes i have ever owned.

 tehmarks 03 Jul 2019
In reply to stanante:

Have you tried a pair of Mythos? Soft beginner shoe they might pretend to be, but they're the shoe I keep coming back to by default. They're like wearing a second skin; incredibly sensitive and precise when broken in, and as comfortable as your favourite pair of slippers. They are however really quite soft, so if you want something stuff they're out of the question.

 TobyA 03 Jul 2019
In reply to tehmarks:

Mythos were a popular choice for hard sport in the 90s, I remember Huber wearing them on lots of 8c+ routes. I don't think they've ever been sold as a beginner shoe. Sportiva make plenty of those though.

 TobyA 03 Jul 2019
In reply to stanante:

> Thinking of just getting some soft beginner shoes that will be comfortable and tactile to cater me for some epic multipitch routes I'm planning in Snowdonia in a few weeks.

I'm not sure if your profile is up to date but it says there you climb Vdiff on trad. I'd say at least up to about VS having comfy shoes is the most important thing for doing longer routes. Snug but not tight, perhaps board lasted, but not necessarily so. What shoe isn't really going to make a massive difference, but I'd look at the cheaper ones sold as "beginner shoes". 

 Gary Coggon 03 Jul 2019
In reply to TobyA:

Another vote for TC Pros.  If latter too expensive, then Scarpa Techno Xs I used before them were just the job for long routes nudging into the low Es. 

 neuromancer 03 Jul 2019
In reply to stanante:

TC Pros are just too narrow.  I mean OP likes Verdes so he has pencil feet and will love TC pros.

What if you have wide feet at the toe? Scarpa make great wide performance shoes, but went for a narrow last for the Maestro.


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