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ARTICLE: Seven Lonely Days - The Rescue of Alexander Gukov

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 UKC Articles 31 Jul 2019

The One year to the day that Russian mountaineer Alexander Gukov was rescued after spending a week stranded at over 6,000 metres on Latok 1 following the death of his partner Sergey Glazunov, Ash Routen tells the story of one of the most dramatic rescues in mountaineering history...

The marooned Russian hurriedly hit the SOS button and punched out a message to Anna Piunova and a few family members and friends. There was two percent battery remaining on his satellite messenger. "I NEED HELP. EVACUATION REQUIRED. Sergey fell. I'm hanging without any gear."


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pasbury 31 Jul 2019
In reply to UKC Articles:

A riveting story and very well written.

 Dan Arkle 31 Jul 2019
In reply to UKC Articles:

A well written account. 

Compare and contrast with Tom Livingstone's account of a similar line which avoided the difficult upper ridge.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/08/tom_livingstone_on_latok_i-71682

 Ash Routen 01 Aug 2019
In reply to Dan Arkle:

Thanks Dan. I interviewed Tom for a paper as soon as he got back to the UK and it was good to see he later expressed the same thoughts -warts and all- in various outlets.

Gukov replied in a piece for Rock and Ice: https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/interview-alexander-gukov-talks-latok-...

And he also wrote a short piece for Alpinist: http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web18f/wfeature-a64-latok-i-impossible-is-not-f...


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