UKC

NEWS: Camilotto Pellisier (8a/+) by Helliker and Twyford

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 UKC News 14 Aug 2019
Matt Helliker and Emma Twyford have freed the 11-pitch Dolomites classic, the Camilotto Pellisier (8a/+) on the Cima Grande. Initially an aid route opened by Mauro and Minuzzo in 1967, the route eventually became a popular free climb after Mauro Bubu Bole's free ascent in 2003, after which he initially graded it 8b. The pitches range from 5a to 8a/+ with the 3rd and 6th pitch being the hardest, before joining the Dibona Arete for its last 3 pitches to the top.

Read more
 Climber_Bill 14 Aug 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Awesome. Well done. Good write up.

Pushing yourself when really cold is hard. Having to save something and keep going both mentally and physically for the rest of the route after the hard pitches needs a lot of focus and commitment.

The write up didn't mention anything about the condition of the fixed gear. I assume a lot of it has been in since the first free ascent in 2003 and it's probably not all in the best condition by now.

TJB.

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...