In reply to UKC News:
This is a good illustration of why "speed" doesn't fit in with the other two.
The winner of the men's speed event came 49th and 61st in the other two, and the people who came 2nd, 3rd, 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, 9th and 10th didn't even make the top 20 overall.
Meanwhile, Ondra (1st and 6th in lead and boulder) came 47th in speed, and Schubert (2nd and 3rd) came 48th.