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Reccomend me a jacket for winter sport climbing b

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 SED 28 Sep 2019

My old Marmot puffy is no more, and I need a replacement for the coming winter of frozen belays.

Before I blow a few hundred on a big poofy jacket, can any recommend me a jacket (down or synthetic) that will keep me from shivering under a rock umbrella this winter?

I'm looking to spend £2~300, and so far I am split between the MEQ skyline hoody, the Rab Nebula Pro and the MEQ Fitzroy/Citadel. I'm not totally fussed about looks, it's gotta be warm 

Thanks

Post edited at 15:36
 MischaHY 28 Sep 2019
In reply to SED:

Patagonia Fitzroy if you want lightweight, packable and bleedin' warm, or ME Lightline if you want cheaper, warm but aren't as bothered about pack size. 

The choice is vast but the two above are excellent performers within their category and both made by ethical companies with good down sourcing. 

Skyline is a bit light for really chilly belays IMO. Same goes for the Nebula. Mountain Hardwear cut is very boxy so good if you're a square type but otherwise best avoided IMO - although they will be offering a somewhat narrower cut for this season, apparently. 

Citadel is toasty and a real monster but great if you do a lot of damp belays or plan on some winter mountaineering. 

I work for an online outdoor shop so have had most popular models in my hands/out for testing. 

Post edited at 15:50
OP SED 28 Sep 2019
In reply to MischaHY:

Have you tested the ME Vega?  

Is the 800 loft and bigger panels and lower weight worth the extra £80~120? 

Post edited at 18:29
 MischaHY 29 Sep 2019
In reply to SED:

I've not tested it in anger but had them side by side a little while ago and the Vega is clearly a far more technical piece. The weight difference is noticeable and the 'softness' of the higher fill power gives it a nice feel when wearing. The hood feels a little odd around the neck if you have it tightened but aren't currently using it, but that's just because of the nature of the construction - you have similar problems with light hardshells. 

It's a very nice jacket. Comparable to the Fitz Roy parka although I'd say the Vega is a touch warmer based on the numbers. 


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