UKC

I am heading to Paklenica later this week for a short break.  Not looking to push my grade, keen to get on the big multi pitch sport routes on Anica Kuk.  Things like Velebitaski, 350m, 6a+, Mosoraski, Klin.  The guide I have looks like a reprint of a 2009 guide, so not up to date.  Not very clear about the quality or frequency of the bolts, route finding, or whether any trad gear is needed.  Anybody been out there recently, any recommendations, info or general feedback ?!

Cheers

I have just had a week there and liked the place. The routes in the gorge that are next to the path are generally single pitch and can be polished. I have seen a lot worse in the UK.

We did Mosoraski and found the topo nothing like the actual route. The bolting is very run out, sometimes unable to see the next bolt, so route finding is the single biggest issue we found. However there is usually a bolt near a hard move. We took a single set of Ultralight rocks, a few slings and cams Camalot small silver up to red. In retrospect, we could of used green up to yellow, I don't like cams in Limestone unless the placement is cupped to allow the lobes to sit well.

We had read that the route was described as starting well left of the giant carabiner, but we think it perhaps starts just left of it. We worked out we did the first 3 pitches of a harder route called Nostalgia. Then moved right onto the true line and followed a Polish team. Only after my mate led a really hard line into a dead end cave, we rapped 30m back to the correct belay, a little higher and right of the one I stumbled upon. It looked right as all the hangers were painted red and we had followed red belay hangers till then (off route). We took around six hours, but lost about 1.5 hours sorting the dead end out.

We topped out as a rainstorm started and saw a party of 3 stuck on the ledge below the crux corner. They got off I think, hopefully up, rather than down, which would of been horrendous. I would of preferred to of used double ropes as the retreat option would be easier.

Mutltipitch routes I liked were Nosorog, Centralni Kamin, Sjerverno Rebro, Danaja and Catch the Rainbow.

Some of the grading was fair and some a bit mean, but we adapted as the week progressed and we got used to the style there.

Its worth a trip up to Vaganac outside of the park and you save using one of the day entries on your permit, we went twice, on on a rainy day and climbed the other time.

You also pay to park each day, cheap though.

Another tip is the weekends are really busy and you need to get in around 9am before the top car park fills up.

Some routes have a small plaque at the bottom to show the climb and you can work out where the others are from that one.

So to round up, take some trad gear, long slings and an adjustable lanyard was very useful on the multi pitch stuff too. Double ropes well worth considering if possible having to retreat. A lightweight pack, walk off shoes. The path off top of Anita Kuk goes right facing in, to summit and then down, all marked with red dots and lines.

If you are looking for accom try Marko Duksi, MD Apartments, he is a climber, they are on the road to the gorge and within walking distance of the new Tommos hypermarket which opened last week.

Have a good trip.

Paklenica is a great destination. Your 2009 guidebook should cover you OK, most routes are still the same, so that's not a big issue and there are not a lot of new long routes.  There are some new single-pitch sectors though, but I guess you could always check out latest guidebooks in stores around Starigrad and snap a picture of them if you'd really like to check them out. 

Regarding climbing itself, it's still hot in Paklenica at this time of the year, so it pays to start early and to choose walls that are in shade. Avoid routes on the right side of canyon due to sun. The biggest wall Aniča kuk is in shade the longest, until 2-3PM so that's a good choice. Aniča kuk - Stup on the other hand gets sun quite early, so I'd avoid it. Main wall of Aniča Kuk in my opinion also offers the most "serious" climbing there, which means that even the "low-grade" routes can be demanding both time-wise and technical-vise and are also often exposed. Many older easy routes here are also quite old-school graded, so it's good to take this in consideration. Aniča kuk - West face is better in that regard and offers more relaxed, holiday-style climbing. Good choice is also Veliki čuk which has some of the best easier-grade climbs that are very suitable for intro. The rock here is also kind of better quality than elsewhere and climbing is less technical, so I'd definitely recommend it - it contains some of the best climbs in whole gorge in my opinion.

Protection is more or less good-to-great, rebolting is done often. Expect that on long routes easier pitches can be quite run out so it's good to have a couple of friends of various sizes. I'd not take more than 3-4, though. I'd take sizes 0.3-0.5, 0.75 and 1 (BD numbers). It's also nice to have an extra sling, and a couple of stoppers (2-4, not a whole set). Also, pay attention to S status of the route, routes up to S2 should be bolted very good, S3 is where real runouts may begin. A mix of normal and alpine quickdraws is good to prevent rope drag in places.

Routes - my recommendations would be:

- Veliki Čuk - Water song [160m, 6a+] is a beautiful route and crux pitch is one of the best pieces of rock I've climbed so far. Because the route is short and access is fast, it is also a great introduction into Paklenica and you still have time to do another route if time allows. Highly recommended.

- Veliki Čuk - Izgubljena djeca [170m, 6a+], somewhat lesser quality than Water song, but still very good.

- Aniča Kuk - Klin [350m, 6c+] definitely worth it, upper easier pitches are super nice and offer great views. Crux has an easier, more logical and direct 6c variation and I'd recommend to take it if you hate technical traverses. It is kinda more bouldery, though, but not in a bad way. Also, I found first 6a+ pitch ugly&nasty for the grade - but upper pitches are all better!

- Aniča Kuk - Nostalgija [350m, 6b] also a great route to the right of "Klin", good because it's often not crowded at all, which cannot be said for Mosoraški and Velebitaški.

- Aniča Kuk - Velebitaški [350m, 6a+] I'd recommend this one instead of Mosoraški, because it offers better climbing in my opinion. Mosoraški has become quite hard and slippery in last years due to traffic. But have in mind that both Mosoraški and Velebitaški are two of most popular routes in Paklenica and are often crowded. Start early in morning.

- Aniča Kuk - The show must go on [280m, 6c] very exposed route that offers great uninterrupted medium-grade climbing all the way to the top! 6b pitches are not to be underestimated. Bolting is modern and good, though. Route is also in shade all day. The only downside in my opinion are anchors which are often uncomfortable.

- Aniča Kuk - Kača [350m, 6a] This route is also one of "easier" climbs on main wall, but does not get as much traffic as Mosoraški or Velebitaški, and climbing is kinda more relaxed. Good choice if other two 6a+-es in main wall are crowded. 

- Aniča Kuk - Bears on toast [120m, 6c+] 2nd pitch offers outlandish climbing! Just google it and check images . You can abseil from the top of Stup, but the route can be combined with "Brid za veliki čekič 5b" to reach the top of the wall - but I'd continue only is it's not too hot. 

- Aniča Kuk west face - Kraški Slovenski Tržaški Sizbek [6a+ 250m], Juha [6a 250m], Capitan Pelinkovac  [6c 260m], Bračni smjer [5c 200m] - these are all routes that are often way less demanding than the grade would suggest. This is because the nature of the west wall is less serious than main wall, good ledges can often be found and the cruxes are usually concentrated on small parts of the pitch. West face is good when you want to have more relaxed climbing day and/or do not want to really commit. 

If you want to know anything else, ask...otherwise, have a great time!

"It looked right as all the hangers were painted red and we had followed red belay hangers till then (off route)."

Red hangers and anchors are used by mountain rescue IIRC, so I'd ignore them for orientation.

Also, Mosoraški is one of the older routes, so that's why its character is kinda more serious than elsewhere. And yeah, Paklenica takes a little to get used to the style.

Thanks everybody, some great info there....when I have been to Spain on long multipitch, I have taken a 60m 10.5mil rope for leading, plus the second has dragged a 50m 9mil, to tie together for ab descents, is that a good idea ?...

I did all of the above routes using single rope. You should be able to rappel using single rope almost everywhere even if 60m rope is a little short. But of course having two ropes helps with that if you don't mind hauling an extra...my recommendation would be to use only one 70m or more single rope as 60m can be a little short for abseil. But even with 60m you should be able to find good abseil options almost anywhere. 

Also, while rereading my post above, I noticed a mistake in my description. It is the left (not right) side of the canyon that is in sun most of the day.