UKC

The latest information I have regarding access to climbing areas in the UAE, is that the upper reaches of Wadi Bih (which contain most of the best accessible climbing and campsites) have been closed by the authorities due to security issues. The Wadi Bih system has been used for many years as a route for illegal economic migrants from Afghanistan and surrounding states to the honeypots of the UAE.

The authorities have been trying to stamp it out for years, and with recent security worries (we all know who is reputedly still in that part of the world, and would like to access a major international airline hub), feel the best way of doing so is by closing the overland route through the mountains. It's a bit of a bugger, as I cant think of any western climber who might be inclined to smuggle anyone who vaguely looks like OBL past the army posts which have been at both ends of the wadi for years.

From a climbing point of view, all is not lost, as the UAE has plenty other good venues, but none with the concentration of well developed ( and cleaned ) routes.

Wadi Qada'a has around 200 single pitch routes, whereas Wadi Ghalilah is still accessible for bigger and more serious fare. In the lower reaches of Wadi Bih, Jebel Hila has a number of fine serious multipitch routes, with scope for further exploration in the partly hidden Wadi below its North Face. (A 30 minute walk in is involved, unlike the 30 second sprints to most of the crags in upper Wadi Bih, hence it's lack of popularity!)
Further South, Hatta Crag and the areas near to Al Ain / Buraimi are all still unaffected, but the rock in those areas requires more care.

There's still loads of new route potential, but mostly all fairly serious trad stuff.

I'm in regular touch with the guys still out there, and if anyone is thinking of going and wants the latest beta, you can contact me.

Cheers

Alan Stark

In reply to Alan Stark: That's interesting Al. Is it closed at the police post or further up ? In other words can you get to ANY crags in Wadi Bhi ?

take care, Chris

In reply to CDL:

Hi Chris.

As far as I know ( e-mail from John Gregory ) I believe it is closed beyond the UAE border post at the end of the tarmac. The Wadi Khab Shamsi end from Dibba appears to be open, so access to Camp 21, Spice World, 90 metre, and all the crags down to Celestial Wall may be accessible from Dibba, but it's a helluva long way to go just to find out it's blocked from the east also. Dont know of anyone who's tried that way recently. Wadi Qada'a is open, and I believe Jebel Hila is still accessible (Ask Geoff Horby about the quality of routes on that one - 400m plus! )

Wonderwall, near Al Ain has seen a bit of activity, with new sectors being developed for sport climbing. The main trad areas have thankfully been respected, a trend which I hope will continue.

Cheers

Alan

In reply to Alan Stark:
So you can still get to my boulders, Phew!

In reply to Mr Damo:

Bit of a long way to go for a spot of bouldering !!

Looks as though Spice World and 90 metre boulders are still off limits, and dont know about Boulder World in Wadi Khab a'Shamis.

Look at it this way, people may now feel the urge to visit Wadi Body if Wonderwall scares them too much.

In reply to Alan Stark:

The latest update is that the UAE border post is definitely closed, and there is no direct access from Ras Al Khaimah to the Upper reaches of Wad Bih.

However

Providing that winter storms have not blocked Wadi Khab Shamsi, all of the crags in Upper Wadi Bih are still accessible from Dibba, via Wadi Khab Shamsi and over the pass. (4wd is probably required if the track has not recently been graded).

The restrictions in the north have prompted renewed activity elsewhere.

A number of new sports routes have been developed in the Wonderwall area, near Al Ain, in the south of the region, with 1&2 pitch routes being bolted and climbed. (up to Fr 6b so far, with loads of scope for more routes)

In reply to Alan Stark: Thanks for this Alan,did the authorities set a time frame for this closure?

In reply to paul hooper:

Not as far as I know. It seems to be random. I have long ago given up trying to understand the workings of the official mind in that part of the world, -- it's just better not to argue and find an alternative.

I have had reports that on some days it has been open, but on other days it is closed at the Ras Al Khaimah end.

The extensive crags in Wadi Qada'a, together with Jebel Hila are all still accessible from RAK, as are the climbins in Wadi Ghalilah further north. The UAE border post lies 10km beyond the entrance to Wadi Qada'a, with the major climbing areas of Wadi Bih some 3.5 - 7 km further on.

Most days you can't get from the UAE border post into central and upper Wadi Bih without a 120 km detour each way via Manama and Masafi and Dibba (and probably needing a 4WD to get over the pass!).

In reply to Alan Stark:

Its open again - so you can get to my boulders too. Saves carrying a rope.

In reply to Tony Kay:

Good news Tony, but knowing the way they do things over there, for how long?.

It will certainly save the long drive round via Dibba.

Latest News from Antoine is as well as doing a number of new routes in Musandam, that Claude Redard and Pascal Sprungli drove back from Khasab to the closed border post near Camp 21. From here they climbed the big pillar just behind the border post(around 850m). Apparently it was very nice climbing and not too difficult -- (probably means TD!). They did the climb in one day reaching their car late at night with flash lights, worried that they would be mistaken for illegals by the soldiers at the Omani border post. They later went in to lower Wadi Bih via RAK, and climbed a short (150m) face somewhere before the UAE border post.

In reply to Tony Kay:
What will you send?

In reply to Alan Stark:

I'll send something slabby as I'm heavy - which is why I'm off to JTree, and I'll send it via the border post which is probably unreliable.

In reply to Tony Kay:
Go for the first proper ascent of White Boy Day (or whatever you wan to rename it)
Have a good one