UKC

Hey guys, hope you're doing well.

I already own a gym training shoe (trash) and a shoe for hard boulders (solutions) and am looking for something for sports climbing.

This summer I'm hoping to get on vertical to slightly overhanging limestone and also some lovely slabby to vert granite multipitches in the alps.

I tried a bunch of shoes on at the store.

The la sportiva genius's fit really well, but would no edge shoes be any good on granite?

Instinct vs's fit like a sock, do these smear well and I've heard complaints about durability, can you confirm?

Want to try furia air but would this work on granite? Also any recommendations for other shoes to try?

You don't need separate shoes.

Solution is highly popular sport climbing shoe and unless you sized it to be really too small, it'll work out just fine for all kinds of rocks.

For the granite multipitch stuff, you'll want comfort. So for that you might want to get something new... if La Spo fits, you can do no wrong in gettin' pair of TC Pros (sized so that you can keep a thin sock in them and wear them all day, as in really all day without taking them off).

Solutions will likely do the job, but if you want something aimed at pure vertical edging then check out the Miura VS. It's an absolute weapon on the peak lime and similar. 

Multipitching depends on the grades you'll be doing as when it gets hard I just use my usual sport shoes and slip the heels off at belays. Up to about 7a I'm happy in a pair of Pinks which are comfy all day but quite soft, whereas over 7a I really want my Miuras on. They're also great on granite. Recommended! 

So I'm a 43.5 and my solutions are 41, I can wear them for single pitch no problem but I feel like cause there's so much pressure on them they're gonna get wrecked really quickly and I want them to last another few months.

I'll try the TC pros if I can find a shop that stocks them.

I've tried the pinks on and they felt really uncomfortable even with only half size down. I felt like my toes were getting jammed against the top of the shoe. In la sportiva/scarpa shoes the internal materials are really nice so it doesn't feel scratchy but that wasn't the case with the pinks. Do they become more comfy over time?

Unlike Sportivas, FiveTens are more or less true to their size (i.e. pinks don't strech at all as they are synth... they mold slightly to yer feet though).

So downsizing them might not be too smart... Think of them that OOTB they should feel uncomfortable, but they should not hurt.

I can't agree with this. Pinks stretch noticeably and also become a lot softer than when new. I wear my Pinks a full size down from street size to get a good longer term fit. 

@OP it's far more likely the shoe doesn't fit due to the shape of your foot. What type is it based on this shape guide? https://tinyurl.com/y5nx78rr 

My foot is slightly narrow at the front, super low volume foot and especially heel, so pinks fit this fine.

My longest toe is the middle toe, my first and third are the same length, so with my first toe at the end of the pinks the rest of them are curled and it's not comfy to be curled in those shoes.

Needle sports in Keswick has TC Pros. Dont waste your money on Furia Airs, you'll be disappointed