UKC

How snug/loose should a waterproof shell be?

(This is over a down jacket)

Looking at ME Lhotse jacket - Large is snug but comfortable, XL is looser but maybe too big/flappy

Doesn’t it depend on what size you are?

I can get a Rab Generator under my Xl ME jacket but it’s a bit Michelin man. Unless it was very wet I would wear the belay jacket on top for space and not to lose your heat whilst changing?

I usually take a large in everything and the large fits well (maybe a bit snug) hence why I’m asking if it’s better to go a size up (although it becomes a bit baggy) therefore probably worse in the wind

Depends how you want to wear it. If you're going to wear it to climb in without the down most of the time, go for something that's tight enough not to get in the way but won't restrict movement. If it's tight when you then wear it over the down, so be it.

If you're going to predominantly wear it over the down to stand around in, have a fit that's comfy for that. A bit of flapping won't matter here. 

From the sounds of it, you want a lhotse in a 'large and a half', which I guess doesn't exist. I'd be looking at other jackets - there'll be one that's got the fit/space you want. 

I've never felt the need to wear a waterproof shell over a down jacket. If it's cold enough to merit wearing a down jacket then any precipitation will fall as snow and any half decent down jacket should be able to shrug that off. However breathable the shell, the down will tend to get damp, which is not good. The combination of a down jacket and a waterproof shell on top would be too hot for me under any UK conditions I've encountered, which would be uncomfortable and only add to the chances of the down getting damp.

I've found synthetic belay jackets are much better for typical UK conditions, worn over a waterproof if it's around freezing point or just above, and when static.

It’s for ice climbing in Norway so well into the minus figures hence the down jacket 

In that case you'll presumably you'll not be climbing in the down, so I'd go large (or whichever fits better for climbing) and either stick the down over the top (it won't be raining!) or have it tight undernearth whilst belaying.

But really I'd still be checking out other brands/jackets. There'll be one with the same features as the Lhotse that's in the middle in terms of fit.

Have a good trip!

Is there any reason you want Lhotse and nothing else? 

Mountain Equipment is no special - there's other jackets in the market. After multiple failures of garments that were bought and failed within single year, as well as £140 trousers that are suited to "to cold weather mountaineering and hiking" (taken straight from their website, it's Mission pants) being sold without zip pull tabs, I usually skip ME these days. It's a shame since Mission pants were the only ones that ticked the boxes for me, I got them and realised I know need to source my own pull tabs! 

From what I’ve heard and read from reviews, the Lhotse jackets are pretty well regarded and perform really well (only issues being packs wearing away coating on shoulders and back which is fair on all)

I’ve got quite a bit of ME gear that’ve been amazing and it’s some of my favourite gear. Probably more brand loyalty for the ME choice but backed up by a bit of research I suppose 

I scarce know where to start..........