UKC

Yet another B2/B3 thread

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 Salm0n 19 Dec 2019

Hi,

I've seen a few threads on this but nothing definitive, I know it's also a personal choice.

I'm going ice climbing for the first time next year in Cogne, I know I won't be on sustained 90° climbs but I'd like something to use for when I do get there. I'd also like to use the boots for a bit of Scottish winter climbing and some mountaineering in the alps.

I was looking at the new Scarpa mont blanc but I'm wondering if it's a jack of all trades master of none. I'd ideally like to get one set of boots but I'm wondering if I get some B2 boots for Cogne that I can then use in the alpine and then some ice specific B3 boots for when I do that more regularly.

I'm aware of all the different brands but I've got wide feet and find the Scarpa's a really comfy fit.

Cheers

 Jasonic 19 Dec 2019
In reply to Salm0n:

You definitely need B3 boots for icefall climbing- B2 boots are for general mountaineering.

After that usual advice- find a good shop- think about which socks you are using- many people go half to one size up over street shoe size- 

 Jockspotter 19 Dec 2019
In reply to Salm0n:

I'm in exactly the same position as you! Norway in Feb (B3) but need B2 for the rest of the year! Following this thread closely!

OP Salm0n 19 Dec 2019

I have been into a store and sized up for the mont blancs, when you ask about what's most suitable the answer always seems to be "my mate has them and like them"

Would a B2 be suitable for most the 4000m+ alps routes?

In reply to Salm0n:

Depends on the route! Presumably you mean original / easiest?

OP Salm0n 19 Dec 2019
In reply to featuresforfeet:

True it's a bit of a sweeping statement. Not always one to take the easy way so a mix of the original and some alternatives.

In reply to Salm0n:

Mont Blancs will work well for Cascade Ice, Scottish Winter and most summer alpinism. I’ve used mine for all those activities without issue. 

They aren’t the warmest boots in the world, and you will get cold toes wearing them on long belays. 

At a later date it might be worth getting a second lighter boot, like a Sportiva Trango Tower or Scarpa Ribelle. These are good for general UK hill walking and mountaineering, as well as alpine rock routes where you’ll be wearing rock shoes, but need to carry your big boots up the route. 

Go to a good shop, with plenty of time, and try on as many pairs as you can.

HTH

In reply to Salm0n:

As normal, people are making slightly sweeping generalisations (or possibly making sexist assumptions given your limited profile). 

Boot stiffness probably depends more on size than B2 or B3 rating. If you've got tiny feet as some female climbers do, you could probably climb WI4 in boots nominally rated as B1. Equally, if you've massive feet, anything except the absolute stiffest of B3 boots are going to feel hard work.

Additionally, climber weight may make a difference; a 16 stone mountaineer might want stiffer boots than 8 stone sport climber even if they have the same size feet.

However, unless you are very light or have small feet the advice of going for B3 for ice climbing is fairly sound. 

Post edited at 16:43
 imahuman118 19 Dec 2019
In reply to Salm0n:

Great thing about scarpa mont blanc and la sportiva nepals are they are a jack of trades, they ice climb really well, they're great to walk in (make sure you have merino wool or equivalent socks). Most mountain guides own one or the other, they mitigate the need for a B2 boot. However a lot of mountaineers prefer a slightly softer, lighter B2 boot and a fully gaitered, fully stiffened B3 boots for ice climbing, north faces....

If you can live with the stiffness get the B3's, if not then get two boots.

With any boots try them on before you buy them, a lot of scarpa boots have high volume heels and are wide so doesn't fit me.


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