UKC

Hi all - my first post on here!

I’ve been doing indoor bouldering for about 2 years and I’ve hit the infamous plateau at about the V5 mark.

I've identified technique as my major weakness but I have NO idea how to train this. I was hoping you might be able to give me some tips re what a technical session at the wall should look like (eg X minute warm up, X mins on Y activity etc) and good technical drills (eg 3 sets of quiet climbing on a route 2 grades below my max).

Thanks in advance for sharing, it’s much appreciated! 
 

Harry 

Ask better climbers for tips on how to do problems and go bouldering outside - technique is often key outside so that will help. 

Which technique have you identified as being weak?

Foot work - I burn through shoes like mad.

Over gripping holds like mad, probably due to the bad footwork. 

Did you see the article Neil Gresham did for UKC recently? It's pretty long but the main thing is the movement drills mentioned towards the end. Silent feet during your warm-up and making sure you get your foot in the right place first time. Then from there working on body positioning relative to the holds. His climbing masterclass is also very good! 

If you want something a bit more committed then John kettles book is basically a massive collection of movement drills. 

As per Misha’s advice. Go climbing outside, if you have the capacity to. 

My only word of warning would be don’t expect to climb V5 if you do end up doing that.

Good luck. 

Ask your regular wall for a recommendation of a good coach. 

Even one session with a decent one will be well worth it.

+100000 

Movement coaching is ridiculously beneficial. 

I haven’t! Do you have the link by any chance?
sounds really interesting! 

I would definitely consider myself lucky to top a V3 outdoors if that! 

John Kettle's book is worth getting

Here's the link!

https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/skills/series/neil_gresham_technique_an...

The silent feet and first time placement are really worth doing. I find if I do these drills in warm up along with doing some slabby problems where you have to trust your feet to not fall off makes a big difference in how much I trust and use my feet for the rest of the session 

Thanks! This is really useful  

Thanks, I’ll check it out

Do slabby problems indoors and out to learn to trust your feet. 

Ditto, bouldering is the primarily the art of bodily movement.

In addition, may I ask, if you are aware your footwork is lacking somewhat, what is it that stops you slowing and considering what you do? Is it the intensity of the moment?

I find it useful to detach yourself from the idea that the primary importance of indoor bouldering is merely to get to the top. Those holds will be gone in a few weeks, never to return. Slow it down and cultivate an attitude of, "it's not what you do but the way that you do it", ahem! that's what gets... you get the idea.

A mix of things I think - sometimes I am pushing my limit and feel I need to move off quickly. Other times I just don’t quite nail the placement of my feet and don’t feel comfortable on them/don’t feel secure. 

I need to embrace this really - I always go out to train sub max problems to focus on movement and then get pulled into projecting 🙈

There's loads of good stuff regarding movement and technique on YouTube.  For instance, Louis Parkinson has some great drills that are worth looking up on there.

A couple of tips that spring to mind are;

Trying climbing easier boulders (say V2/V3) with as much perfection and precision as you can.  Try and place your feet and hands right first time - try to elimate adjustments.  By working under your limit, strength and endurance will be less of an issue.  This is great to add in as part of your warm up.

Look up 'silent feet' drills.  This is basically placing your feet carefully and quietly.  It teaches good footwork and your shoes will start to last much longer! 

As was said above, if you can get outside al lot, this will bring your footwork on loads.

Technique takes real time to develop, but for what it's worth:

Look at your feet. No, really look at them, spot the best point on the foothold for the next move and get your foot there, ideally without any jumping. Sometimes you really have to twist your body around to let you see your feet. Keep watching until your foot is on the hold and you are sure it is good.  I think I make about two foot moves for every hand move on average, sometimes more. Lots of little micro adjustments.

If you haven't done it before do some "hoverhold", where you hold you hand above the next hold and count to 3 before you can hold it. This helps you get your body in a balanced position, which is good for both static and dynamic climbing. 

As you do moves concentrate on engaging your feet. If a hold is sharp keep the angle right as you move. If you are on steep ground choose really dig/tension them.

Watch what others do with their feet, and how they look at their feet as well, especially the really good ones.

As others have said, get outside. You have many more footholds, so it is about selecting the right ones for you, and that is an additional skill that can take some time to learn, but will help you back at the climbing wall.

I have been climbing 18 years and I am still learning ... 

We do most of the above at different stages.  Even now at v8 and above we still do them.  I will stand by the wall close my eyes and if I can hear my daughter climb it's 1 point to me.

Another game is 75/25%.  Try to climb with 75% of your weight through your feet and only 25% through your hands.  Obviously you need to choose you climbs properly.  Really focuses your head on putting proper weight through your feet

< I need to embrace this really - I always go out to train sub max problems to focus on movement and then get pulled into projecting 🙈

we've all been guilty of that! The nice thing is when you do your sub max work and join your mates, you'll be nicely warmed up to the task. It's it a bit like you don't cook meat at nuclear temperatures to get it on the plate in 5 seconds. Our bodies appreciate a slow rising in temperature. I know you know that but find a way to insist you achieve it. Good luck!

I'm 60. I started again 18 months ago after a 15 year pause, and last week I got Dave MacLeod's "9 out of 10 climbers..." from the library. No kidding: I went from 6b/6c max to 3 7a's within a week, and I can't wait for the next session. Get the book and absorb his principles! 

Thanks for all your help everyone! Little overwhelmed by the response but I have loads to work from!