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Route Reading....

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 BrooksElliot 25 Jan 2020

New climber here. I've been climbing only about a few short months and 1 thing I have noticed that's a hindrance in my progression is reading the route. I stand there and study the holds and try to imagine where I'd go and so on.... I get on the wall and start to climb when all of a sudden I'm half way up and have no idea where I'm gonna go from there... is this something that you learn as you go or am I just missing something all together??? Any advice is appreciated.

1
 Rog Wilko 25 Jan 2020
In reply to BrooksElliot:

Isn't that what the colours are for? It's a lot harder when you get outdoors and climbing trad.

24
 McHeath 25 Jan 2020
In reply to BrooksElliot:

It's one thing looking at holds from below, and another when you try to use them. If you're getting stuck regularly it sounds as though you're trying climbs which are too hard. It can be frustrating to succeed on a few climbs at grade X and then to fail on another at the same standard, but this is normal at all levels and especially when you're starting out, before you're aware of all the techniques which can be used. Try to watch more experienced climbers solving the same problem and work out what they're doing differently; 10% of the time it'll come down to strength (which you'll definitely build up in time), but 90% of the time they'll simply be both moving and using the holds (especially the footholds) more efficiently. And don't be shy about asking for an explanation or a demonstration; most climbers are very willing to help (and to show off a bit )

1
 Iamgregp 25 Jan 2020
In reply to BrooksElliot:

I had the same issue when I first started. Sometimes, even when I had messed up, come down and then did it again knowing to go with the other hand or whatever I’d still get it wrong.

These days, I rarely have the same issues. I think you build up a bit of a muscle memory for moves and you intuitively know what is right or wrong even before you make the move.  

Also, I think your ability to “think outside the box” or aptitude for finding inventive solutions to problems gets better the more you do it. Remember climbing is about training the brain as well as the body.

In short, I wouldn’t worry too much. Just keep climbing and it’ll get better.

 oldie 25 Jan 2020
In reply to BrooksElliot:

I've found being confident in ability to reverse if wrong route chosen is helpful. Again experience, strength etc useful, but perhaps practise down climbing too? I still find difficulty memorizing position of holds and how I used them.

 C Witter 25 Jan 2020
In reply to BrooksElliot:

Yep - struggling to understand how to do a climb happens all the time! So does fall off! Actually, you're not doing anything wrong - a big part of the attraction of climbing is that a route or boulder problem is like a puzzle, which you have to solve. The more you climb, the quicker you'll solve certain parts of the problem, but, new problems continue to emerge as you work up the grades.

When you start out, just try to get in a lot of different routes of all angles and flavours, watch other people, and experiment quite consciously with how you are climbing, noting all the small details - e.g. of how you place your feet, how you position your body, which hand you reach with, etc.

Enjoy!

 hang_about 25 Jan 2020
In reply to BrooksElliot:

When you're at a comfortable stance after climbing some distance, stop for a moment and try to see the pattern. You'll be much nearer and it will be easier to see what will/won't work.

You'll get a feel for the grade (most of the time!). If it feels a very hard move for grade X, then there's often an easier way of doing it - retreat a little (or fall off) and then try it a different way. Often putting your feet in a different position will make things easier. 

 Philb1950 25 Jan 2020
In reply to BrooksElliot:

Back in the day you should have tried to follow alpine climbing guides, e.g, take a rising traverse for two ropelengths to a peg under an overhang. Work that one out!

1
 jkarran 25 Jan 2020
In reply to BrooksElliot:

Don't plan too far ahead. Until you've developed a very clear understanding of how you move on the wall you're wasting your time. Try planning one move then do it. Did it work? Well? Try it other ways.

Next think two moves ahead, you're not just looking to move a hand, foot or shift your weight, you're setting up for the next move.

Realistically you only need to plan two or three moves, by the time you can do that your brain will be up to speed working ahead of you so you.

Mostly just go have fun but pay attention to what works and doesn't. 

Jk

 ianstevens 25 Jan 2020
In reply to Rog Wilko:

BINGO!

On the first reply too

 Michael Gordon 25 Jan 2020
In reply to BrooksElliot:

It should improve with practice. Try studying the way holds are aligned and think about whether they look better for the left or right hand, and where the best footholds will be for those hand holds. Spend a lot of time bouldering at the wall, where you can play at route reading without a ticking clock of strength running out.


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