UKC

So I’ve been wearing the Five Ten Anasazi vcs for at least 15 years and I’ve been a fan of the pros. Yesterday I went to buy a new pair for the first time since Adidas took over and there is a big difference in the sizing. I was an 8.5 before and now the 9.5 still seems a bit small. 

Is the only change the sizing? If that’s all it is I’ll be happy to buy a pair of size 10 or whatever seems best. Has the fit of the shoe changed at all?

I’ am in the same boat. I haven’t bought Anasazi’s Pro’s since “the Adidas change”. Loved them. Now made in China, nothing wrong with that. As you mail order 5.10 shoes they are now descripted as “outdoor”. But the, “but” is that they changed the rubber = Harder, read less sticky. I got their new Pinks, quite disappointed, and prefer now better the Tenaya Masia’s which are very similar to the old Pinks. 

Alternatives for me to the Anasazi's would be Unparallel (very, very sticky rubber, but less pointy), Tenaya (their Mastia’s which I will give a try, in searching an alternative for the Anasazi’s) and La Sportiva Muira’s VS (last very similar to the Anasazi for me) come mind though less sensitive, but good for edging, and not so good for smearing as the Anasazi Pro’s. May be La Sportiva's Katana’s VS (haven’t tried them)? I noticed after changing what a difference shoes can make.

I found the whole shape had changed slightly with the new last, and my foot (after ~20 years of pink/verde/VCS use) just doesn't fit as well anymore.

I'm experimenting with the new Unparallel Lace as a replacement for the pinks (rigidity feels between the pinks and blancos initially, seems a little less sensitive but not fully broken in) as this seems closest to the old 5.10 shape, but still looking for something that gives the same "stick" feel. I'll be interested in RR's recommendation of the Muira / Katanas as last time i tried La Sportiva's (~8yrs ago) they just didn't suit foot shape around the heel.

Yeah the shape seemed different to me but I wasn’t sure if it was just that I tried the wrong size (the shop was out of size 10s). 
 

Guess I’ll have to find a new show now

I wore the Anasazi standard for about 15 years, but was caught out by the size change, and somehow they didn't feel as good any more. Seems a bit crazy to take a well established product and mess with it?!

I tried a pair of Tenaya Oasi's and thought they were amazing, really good feel and accuracy and even better than the Anasazi, so that has become my shoe of choice.

If you haven't bought a new pair of shoes since 2011 then I reckon any new pair is going to feel tight

To answer your question? I don’t have the same “stick” feel in the Muira’s like (as?) the former Anazasi’s Pro. In that sense the Muira’s are more suited for edging, more stiff and less sensitive. And shape wise there is of course also difference. For me Muira’s have more or less that same pointiness (pressure on the big toe), that is why I mentioned them. One has to try them your self if one likes them. Heel is different. Katana’s VCS I haven't tried (shape looks to round for me) but may be they are okay to try, since they are long time around that is why I mentioned them. Le morale is try different shoes/brands since this, with the Anasazi’s is a dead end street. Alas.

Besides and/or if a company changes models I ask myself will I buy extra pair or search for new. New is not always bad. Since after all I am now very happy, as an example, with the Tenaya Masia’s.

Have a chat to the guys upstairs in redpoint about Unparallel. When we stopped there after we saw you the other weekend we had a long talk about the changes and why it might be best to hold out until you start seeing Unparallel stuff arriving in the UK (which looks like it's beginning to happen).
You just have to speak to someone in the business to learn the mapping between the names then you can buy proper anasazis again.

I have the made in China Anasazi vcs and the vcs pro (mens).  

they are definately a size out.  I am now an 8.5 in the new and 7.5 in the previous and all other footwear 

i also find they slightly narrower (even sizing up) and they wear out on the toes more quickly

I did complain to Adidas customer service about the issues and they basically told me to f off

I was going to write to the directors of five ten Europe over in Belgium this week

just trying to understand why take a great and iconic shoe be and that Adidas paid millions for and make a complete mess of it when you move manufacturing.  Perhaps they don’t have rulers or measuring tapes ?

Don’t worry, Adidas, is not going to change. If there is no solution, then there is no problem. So the problem is not the solution. The escape is don’t buy 5.10 Adidas.  

A friend of me (mine?) has the same size new Pinks as me (or is it as I have). Anyways, I count on your understanding. The fact is that they are really very different shape wise, different last more or less. It is not that smallest difference between pairs as sometimes noticed by other brands, I am talking about, this is significant (last change).

The design of a climbing shoe is based on knowledge, climbing experience and needs skilled craftsmanship. The design of a sneaker or a running shoe is another occupation and is not to compare with a climbing shoe. 

I've worn pinks, verdes, blancos etc for absolute ages and was really put out by the change.

I've bought a pair of these Unparalell LV from Outside. Made by the same people that made the 5.10s. Really sticky rubber. Not as good fit for me as before unfortunately - I have a little pocket of air in my arch and I got a sore bit on my heel when I wore them for a long time. 

They're great apart from that. I'll always miss the old ones.

https://www.v12outdoor.com/unparallel-up-lace-lv.html?gclid=CjwKCAiAzJLzBRA... which 

I've worn pinks, verdes, blancos etc for absolute ages and was really put out by the change.

I've bought a pair of these Unparalell LV from Outside. Made by the same people that made the 5.10s. Really sticky rubber. Not as good fit for me as before unfortunately - I have a little pocket of air in my arch and I got a sore bit on my heel when I wore them for a long time. 

They're great apart from that. I'll always miss the old ones.

https://www.v12outdoor.com/unparallel-up-lace-lv.html?gclid=CjwKCAiAzJLzBRA... which 

Thanks, I think La Sportiva has a range of different foot shapes available now, so interested to try the newer models, plus some of the Tenaya's if I can find a stockist.

Being in the north of Scotland the range of shoes available is a little restricted, so always interested in case I get the opportunity to try new models elsewhere.