UKC

In this new series, Tom Ripley profiles five significant first ascensionists whose routes represent some of the finest throughout the UK and Ireland. Each of these individuals appear to have imbued something of their own character within their routes, something that makes them stand out due to their distinct style. Tom will also ask six climbers to share their experiences on their favourite route by the first ascensionist.

First up: Joe Brown.

Surprised there aren't any comments on this. Anyway my favourite has to be the last one I did (which it always is!), Sabre Cut on the Cromlech. You can always rely on a JB route to highlight your weaknesses. It turns out that wide cracks are mine.....or narrow cracks. In fact crack climbing in general!

I think it was a case of timing, as there was already an active thread up/running on this very topic (link here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/joe_brown_-_favourite_route-718...).

Sadly Sabre Cut isn't a Brown route, although it does have a few Brownian characteristics: it's good, awkward, and follows an amazing line!

I'm still trying to think of my favourite Brown route, but am yet to decide as there's too many (and they're all amazing). Will mull it over this weekend and try to come up with a firm conclusion.

That thread must've passed me by.

Oh, so it seems it also highlighted holes in my knowledge of first ascensionists. Cheers Rob!

The Sloth, The Sloth, The Sloth, The Sloth, The Sloth, The Sloth, The Sloth, 

F!@# did not realise the Sind was a JB, terrifying cheese climbing even with a shit load of cams.

Thats a Don Whillans route!

It's a great route. Very hard for VS, in my opinion. And a real heartbreaker if you aren't carrying any big cams!

Don tossed a coin for the lead and Joe lost. It must have been double-headed!

Bollocks, there are loads of good wires in the subsidiary crack! The largest cam I owned at the time was a Dragon 5 and I don't think I even placed it.

We all loved Sabre Cut as a VS in the late sixties. In those days, its was one of the first VS's to do, even with primitive protection - which was more than adequate. This was years before cams (let alone big cams), and it didn't break our hearts!

At last - an obituary in the Times https://www.thetimes.co.uk/edition/register/joe-brown-obituary-wxgnkxcv7 . Not a bad effort, I think.

Thanks. First, let me say, enormous respect for Joe Brown, RIP, and condolences to his family and friends

Can I also say that while I'm glad THE TIMES published this (I read the whole thing), and it's not a bad effort as you say, bits at the start grated with me a bit - "Joe Brown, a short, gruffly spoken builder.... an incongruous member of the 1955 expedition up Kanchenjunga.... Most of the rock faces he had scrambled up....

I wish a climber had written it (which doesn't look like the case to me)

I have to say I think it should have included a lot more about the importance of his UK climbs, but I was interested by the portion about his early life and how he started climbing, also by the description of the ascent of Kangchenjunga.

anyone have a link to this that's not behind a paywall?

I'm sorry, I don't, I just registered a while ago for free (with limited access)

Who did write it? 

It doesn't say. I agree, probably not written by a climber.

'...he was also far less experienced than his fellows, several of whom had taken part in the first ascent of Everest two years earlier.'

Mick

“It was like winning the lottery,” Brown recalled. “I knew how to climb and be safe in mountains. But I didn’t think of myself as an experienced alpinist. To be chosen with just two seasons . . . I just remember thinking this was going to be absolutely magnificent.”

They picked a winner. He won.

Mick