UKC

5.10 / Adidas

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 camilo_chile 07 May 2020

I reach out to the wisdom and experience of UKC Forum to ask about your impression on the new 5.10 / Adidas climbing shoes.

I have had a good number of 5.10 shoes in the past, particularly fond of the dragons. Was planning on getting a new pair of them, however (and I don't know why) I've got a feeling that the 5.10/Adidas merge might have affected the quality of the shoes and are no longer made to the same standard.

What are your experiences with the new models? Is the sizing still quite small? (I would go for UK9.5 being that my street show is UK9 and they very tight). Still the same? Better?

Cheers,

Camilo

 joem 07 May 2020
In reply to camilo_chile:

Have you had a look at the Unparallelled range https://www.unparallelsports.com/product-category/climbing/ 

Might find some familiar shapes there and i was very happy with my Up Lace

 petegunn 07 May 2020
In reply to camilo_chile:

I've got a pair of the new velcro dragons and really like them and will get another pair, you can pick them up for £80/90 if you shop around. I had 3 pairs of the old lace up dragons as well. 

Both old and new are size uk9 

Post edited at 14:43
 wbo2 07 May 2020
In reply to camilo_chile:  When did 5.10 become a part of Adidas.... ?  2011 I believe ? When did you buy your shoes?

 nufkin 07 May 2020
In reply to wbo2:

I gather they moved their production facilities a year or two ago, and had some teething problems with quality and consistency, and consequently distribution. Now apparently sorted, though I don't suppose the Current Situation is going to do them any favours. 
It also seems to be general consensus that the sizing is changed - physically smaller for a given number now, if I remember rightly (but it's now months since I tried any. Maybe it was the other way round)

In reply to camilo_chile:

All downhill since Adidas took over

3
 Anoetic 07 May 2020
In reply to camilo_chile:

No problems with my 5.10 Aleons....a good well made shoe...

 Hamfunk 08 May 2020
In reply to camilo_chile:

Hola Camilo,

Adidas moved the production facility and has changed the sizing on most of the range. Can't comment on the Dragons but they've messed with a few other shoes.

The Hiangles have got smaller for their given UK/EU size so you have to size up. I was a UK9 and now need a UK10.

The Anasazi VCS is the same deal, was a UK9 for over a decade and now had to buy UK10. Also the quality/design has changed slightly and if i'm honest I dont like the changes. The padded flaps for under the velcro straps are smaller and the rubber on the base isnt completely flat so edging out of the box is sh!t. I have many pairs of velcros, blancos and verdes over the years and they were always stiff out of the box but the edging was immense. With the blancos retaining some of the stiffness once they are broken in.

I got a pair of unparallel up lace and they are good shoe but they do differ from the verdes/blancos. The rubber sole is thicker so they feel a bit clunky to start with. The material on the upper is thicker, including the tongue. I havent weighed them but I suspect they are slightly heavier than the 5.10 equivalent giving them a different feel.

I use the bananafingers shoe size calculator frequently although this whole Adidas sizing change thing has made the whole process harder.

 Reach>Talent 08 May 2020
In reply to Hamfunk:

I think Bananafingers calculator is suggesting that the new hiangles are nearly 2 sizes smaller. Before I accidentally buy a canoe instead of a rock shoe I am a size 12.5 and normally take a 11.5/12 in hiangles and bananafingers are suggesting I need a 13.5 in 'new highangles' anyone tried the new ones?

 Hamfunk 08 May 2020
In reply to Reach>Talent:

In the description for the Hiangle last season on BF it says: "If you are used to the original Hiangle when it was manifactured in the US then we suggest going a whole size up for the same fit".

With my brand new UK10's next to my well worn UK9's they are basically the same size. So you should be a 12.5/13 in Adidas abused hiangles. Not to turn this into a bananafingers appreciation thread but they are very good on returns too if they turn out to be too small.

 Paul Sagar 08 May 2020
In reply to nufkin:

Other way around in my experience. Infuriating when you’ve ordered them online!

 justdoit 09 May 2020
In reply to camilo_chile:

used the pinks a lot, and Moccasym , lost count of how many ive had over the years. but the last 3 pairs of pinks ive brought the build quality has been terrible. I would defo recommend having a look at the Unparallelled range.


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