UKC

Ned Feehally has made the first ascent of a new problem that is likely to be one of the hardest on grit. Ned climbed the problem just before the lockdown kicked in during a much cooler and drier period after two winter seasons of attempts. Ned has named the problem 'The Boss' – a nod to the late gritstone master, John Allen.

Top UK boulderers seem a little reluctant to give anything 8C. Dave Mac smashes out 8B+ in no time abroad, then spends months on a project at home, Ned the same...

Is this to do with certain dubious precedents set in the early 00s, what Dan Varian rather beautifully described as 'chasing a ghost through walls'...?

Looks good that

any chance you could point me to where that quote from dan varian comes from? curious what exactly it meant 

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=30355.0

Surely a foreigner would come over and do one of our 8B+s and upgrade them then?

Is it not because it's easier to do repeats than first ascents? You know the grade and you don't have to figure out the beta.

Could be. Though on existing problems beta is not necessarily a given - even if there are videos of other ascents the sequence might not work for everyone. Also on some problems beta is fairly obvious, but very hard to execute, etc. Even accounting for the added challenges of opening a new problem near one's limit, flash to several months' working seems like a significant leap. I only remarked because it seems like a trend, not just an isolated example.

I would echo your idea but not sure its just a sentiment. Partly modesty and ego im sure but in my experience its really hard to grade new climbs at your limit. By the time youve invested a load of time and mental energy a grade doesnt feel like it bears much relevance  and comparing it to somthing else you might have done relatively quickly doesnt seem useful. 

Met Ned on Sunday and covered grade disparities and more:

youtube.com/watch?v=dDWS3jzdmrE&