In reply to Annoying Twit:
No problem at all, mate.
To respond to your last post (BBC link)
.... well, i am not sure if UKC platform has enough drive space. What happened to the "media" (to the Internet) within last 5-10-15 years ....... is just beyond ... anything i know.
Thumbs up, subscriptions, views, Insta story, snap-chat, blogs, V-logs, You Tube ..... i mean - shall i go on?
Sometimes i think that everybody wants to have his own 5 min of fame, a bit of ... "we're the best" attitude. Buy our magazine.
Who should we take seriously?
Shall i believe - The Guardian, Yahoo, BBC ?
Have they been climbing with Denis at the time - passing C2, C3 .... meeting two Poles, who advised him NOT TO GO?
Have they experienced -47 during the night, 80 km wind and white out?
Where is this info coming from?
It's a fine line (balance) for all of us to find ....
A balance between reality up there and "the media". I am going to waive from making any comments about what happens in REAL life and what "stories" we can access online (no matter what extreme discipline we're talking).
With regards to Denis.
I am the last one to judge personalities, to judge skills, to judge experience or knowledge level. We all know he is "The Elite". One of the best. Unbelievable and very brave achievements, changing Himalaya's climbing History. Nanga Parbat rescue mission with Adam Bielecki to help Elizabeth Revol and Tomasz Mackiewicz - i would call it - an incredible Kinschoffer climbing marathon. Its a great experience to talk to him, meet him at mountain Festivals, take a photo, have a friendly chat .... fantastic, rare moments. Also I disagree with many people calling such climbers Celebrities. Yes - they're more popular now, having sponsors or managers - planning their schedules ...... but many of them are still the same climbers (still friends), heavily focused, aiming high - making history ... it's just the execution process, gaining funds - has slightly changed for them. Having our passport now - Denis is "one of us". Also he is Krzysztof Wielicki's great friend.
Having said that ...
..... no team member is allowed to brake expedition rules. No team member is authorized to ignore, or question Leader's decisions. No climber, who was invited by our Climbing Association to take part in NATIONAL EXPEDITION should be allowed to make his own (separate and independent) decisions. No team member is allowed to create ADDITIONAL (unnecessary) risk and deliberately not to take the radio with him (or even worse - not willing to talk to the Leader). Full stop. End off .................
The Team might be forced to go up and help him - if things go wrong and Denis gets stuck (or worse - have an accident).
Everybody knows about "Urubko's Winter", right?
I guess his "time frame" plays a major role in the whole K2 climbing story.
No matter who you are (an individual or a team player), big boy with big EGO or just an average climber - rules are there for THE TEAM, to stay SAFE. Simples.
This is Polish Himalaya Winter Program . An activity set up years ago by Polish Climbing Association (climbing leaders passing this tradition on to another generation) aiming for the highest 14 winter attempts. We are precursors who achieved 10 of the highest Ice Peaks in winter .... . Some other countries made their own contributions as well but only one left now. Savage K2.
Nobody tried it so many times, nobody gained such experience on this particular mountain. I might be wrong of course but i can't believe anyone else reaching the summit. This is a "SIEGE" kind of expedition, not a normal one. Approx 3 months spent in the worst weather conditions on Earth, doing hard work, climbing up and down, up and down .... logistic "meisterstuck".
Let's hope Krzysztof Wielicki will lead a winning team this time.