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ARTICLE: Chamonix Jams

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 UKC Articles 24 Jun 2020
Paul Swail on Etat du Choc

John McCune takes us on a tour and relives his experiences on the best of Chamonix's jamming cracks. As mixed climbing conditions become rarer, the jamming experience is becoming highly sought after in the high granite peaks.



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 Doug 24 Jun 2020
In reply to UKC Articles:

All way too hard for me but surprised there was no mention of 'Mont Blanc Super Cracks, les fissures les plus spectaculaires du Mont Blanc' by Lamberto Camurri & Giovanni Bassanini which although published several years ago is still on sale

 pneame 24 Jun 2020
In reply to UKC Articles:

What a great set of photos - emphasizes that Cham granite has the ideal combination of monolithic complexity, mountain scenery and accesibility to please the most jaded viewer. While Yosemite is very fine, it doesn't give quite the thrill. 

And this is from someone who couldn't have ever contemplated anything like this even on their best days but who likes dramatic rock scenery even if it is inaccessible 

 Petar Samkov 24 Jun 2020
In reply to UKC Articles:

Brilliant one !!!! 
Id like to add The Little Yosemite area at Envers . 
Mega routes with very little commitment. 

 Andy Moles 24 Jun 2020
In reply to UKC Articles:

Yes. Good. Bookmarked.

 Michael Gordon 24 Jun 2020
In reply to UKC Articles:

Great article.

 GraMc 24 Jun 2020
In reply to UKC Articles:

Haha I'd guessed the author from the title somehow. Nice one John - enjoyed my cameo appearance  

In reply to Doug:

Maybe because it's trash? It barely even scrapes in as a nice coffee table book, and is no use at all for finding/following the routes.

In reply to GraMc:

I'd love a quick hit to the pettit clocher...keen?

 peter.herd 25 Jun 2020
In reply to UKC Articles:

great article, thanks

 Stu Bradbury 25 Jun 2020
In reply to UKC Articles:

Granite Jammin! Beautiful, Thanks...Check out some of the cracks a Bavella on Corsica if you haven't all ready....Superb!

 markmcgladdery 25 Jun 2020
In reply to UKC Articles:

Great article John, can only dream of most of those routes though... 

Love Pedro Polar being described as a reasonable grade... LOL

Makin' me all sad...was meant to be at Argentiere Refuge right now....

 Sean Kelly 25 Jun 2020
In reply to Stu Bradbury:

I've been singing the praises of Corsica for years. Although it is all granite, there is DWS, the Ba

vella Sport routes, and the big routes in the North of the Island and no little adventure getting into some of the remoter parts.

 Stu Bradbury 26 Jun 2020
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Yeah the walk ins (& outs in the dark) are epic & those big routes are stunning.

 Stone Muppet 08 Jul 2020
In reply to markmcgladdery:

Impressive stuff but is there a ticklist of chamonix cracks closer to 6a or even 5 for us mortals?

 Andy Moles 09 Jul 2020
In reply to Alasdair Fulton:

> Maybe because it's trash? It barely even scrapes in as a nice coffee table book, and is no use at all for finding/following the routes.

Good to know, I would probably have made the mistake of buying that.

Can't someone do a book like Piola's Envers one for the whole range?


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