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Mountaineering Rucksack Advice Please

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 DrJP 14 Jul 2020

I would like some gear advice from the UKC hive...

I am looking for a big day out/2 day-out with a bivvy, mountaineering/climbing rucksack. Also would be used for the occasional alpine/ski touring adventure.

Trying to save money by buying 1 versatile pack...

So far I've narrowed it down to:

+ Mountain Equipment Ogre 42 which is £90

+ Lowe Alpine Halcyon 35-40 which is £93

+ Osprey Mutant 38 

Anyone have any advice/opinions/experience?

Cheers in advance

 wbo2 14 Jul 2020
In reply to DrJP: honestly,  go to a shop a d look at some, try them on.  See what you like

 Philip 14 Jul 2020
In reply to DrJP:

Karrimor Alpinist from 20 years ago.

3
 Martin Bennett 14 Jul 2020
In reply to DrJP:

Unashamed sales effort Lanky. Maybe you've considered the all time classic Crux AK47-X but dismissed it on price, the latest version selling at upwards of £250? Well, I can offer you a used but good condition older (better?) one at a lot less than half of that, if indeed it would suit you? 

Post edited at 21:17
In reply to wbo2:

Indeed. What looks good on the screen may not feel so good when on.  Throw a bit of weight in them and see.

And it may be me being old school, but I'd be looking for a 45 litre sac or, better, a 45+10.

T.

In reply to Philip:

> Karrimor Alpinist from 20 years ago.

Now you come to mention it, I have one of those that I haven't used for about 15 years. Built like a tank.

Not lightweight, but tanks aren't.

T.

 Myfyr Tomos 14 Jul 2020
In reply to Pursued by a bear:

From almost 40 years ago! It is indeed built like a tank. Check out Aiguille Alpine Equipment in Kendal. Brilliant gear.

Post edited at 21:59

 damowilk 14 Jul 2020
In reply to DrJP:

I’m going to do a very UKC reply, and offer another recommendation not on your short list!

Its a bit left-field, and was suggested on here by a poster: Bergans Helium Pro. I use it for similar uses as you mention, just used it last weekend for a ski tour. I’ve been very happy with it. Comes in 40 and 55l, I have the bigger. I used it to replace the latest in a line of Lowe Alpine packs that I wasn’t happy with, finding it an uncomfortable carry.

 Martin Bennett 14 Jul 2020
In reply to Pursued by a bear:

> Now you come to mention it, I have one of those that I haven't used for about 15 years. Built like a tank.

> Not lightweight, but tanks aren't.

> T.

Me too. From when Karrimor was Karrimor. It's only the weight that stops me using it.

Post edited at 22:08
 Kryank 14 Jul 2020
In reply to DrJP:
I have the smaller osprey mutant 22, that I use for a day bag for trekking or bouldering, but for everything else I use a Deuter guide 35+, https://www.outside.co.uk/deuter-guide-35-alpine-rucksack.html

I absolutely love this bag, I know it’s not on your list but a can heartily recommend it. 

Post edited at 23:55
In reply to DrJP:

Black Diamond Speed 40 would be ideal

 galpinos 15 Jul 2020
In reply to DrJP:

I have an old Osprey Mutant 38 in good nick if you are interested.

the updated version of this:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/rucksacks/medium/osprey_mutant_38-898.

DM if interested? £40?

 rowanbrandreth 15 Jul 2020
In reply to DrJP:

Big fan of my Simond Alpinism 33. They also do a 40L version but I haven't used it.

 spenser 15 Jul 2020
In reply to DrJP:

I use a Blue Ice Warthog for these purposes (except for ski touring as I don't have any involvement with planks). It's the most comfortable and well thought out rucksack I have used around this size (Deuter 35+, Osprey Talon 33, Macpac Pursuit V2).

I would however strongly recommend going and trying it on with some heavy bean bags inside (and comparing to other rucksacks, including your current sack) to get an idea of how well it suits YOU, rucksacks are a bit like shoes, they all suit different body types, this is part of why I couldn't get on with the Osprey Mutant when I tried it on in the shop.

 Mark Haward 15 Jul 2020
In reply to DrJP:

How about approaching your decision from a different angle? For example, with the following questions:

1) What size rucksack? Collect all your bivvy / food and mountaineering / skiing kit you would typically use for the two day routes you do ( and expect to be doing over the next few years ) and put it into a heap. Put the heap into some dry bags to find out how many litres you need your pack to be. Do you typically carry almost everything inside the rucksack or are you willing to store some on the outside ( such as helmet and ropes )?

    Also bear in mind how much group kit you can persuade any mates to carry for you?

2) What features are essential to you / your preferences? For example do you require a floating / removeable or static lid? Would you like the versatility of a removeable or interchangeable waist belt? Do you like pockets on your waistbelt? Do you store axes / poles on rear loops, bungee cords or compression straps? Does the intended use include climbing wearing the rucksack including chimneys or even some sack hauling? Would you require a tough build workhorse that will take years of rough abuse or a fast and light approach that will need replacing more often. Is it essential that the rucksack is waterproof or are you happy using dry bags? Would you prefer a more versatile rucksack that can carry big loads and then be stripped down for climbing with ( removeable lid, frame, waist belt ).

    Having decided the realistic size you need for your kit and narrowed down all the models that have the features you regard as essential ( possibly desirable ones too ) then you can go onto the next question:

3) Which of the rucksacks that fit my criteria are most comfortable for me? Go to retail outlets and friends who have the rucksacks and try the rucksacks on with significant weight inside - shops are usually happy for you to put a few ropes into a rucksack. Size, shape, fit is very personal. 

1
 Barrington 15 Jul 2020
In reply to Myfyr Tomos:

Snap! I got mine in 1982 as a second (wonky stitching), still the only sac that actually fitted me properly and there was no back adjustment system (work that out). It's got a few repairs from being dragged up pitches & the lid elastic etc are completely shot, but I still use it on occasion. The closest thing I've found to it is the Deuter Guide, only it's a bit smaller. 

 Elliot Quinn 15 Jul 2020
In reply to DrJP:

I have an ogre and don't use it anymore. After a couple of trips the foam inside the shoulder strap has split so is now uncomfortable. Also the single lid strap gets in way of crampons if storing on outside in the bungee. Maybe an oversight  on my part, but don't get the grey coloured pack, its the same colour on the inside making it very difficult to find anything.  Its a nice pack but just doesn't seem to work as well as others in a climbing/mountaineering scenario. 

hope that helps 

 Siward 15 Jul 2020
In reply to DrJP:

This is highly recommended (by me!) :

https://www.aiguillealpine.co.uk/product/uncategorized/classic-range/r060/

They do a number of variations on the theme too. 

 Dale Berry 15 Jul 2020
In reply to Siward:

Another vote for trying Aiguille. They'll also add custom features like gear racks on the hip belt if needed.

1philjones1 15 Jul 2020
In reply to DrJP:

Arc’teryx fl45?

If low weight (c600g) and simplicity are what you’re after, the above could be good. It extends to 45l and is excellent for climbing. You can add compression straps to strap stuff on the outside. They are also waterproof or as near as. No water bladder pocket but easy to feed the tube through the top if not raining heavily. 

 Andy Hardy 15 Jul 2020
In reply to DrJP:

I've got one of these https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/for_sale+wanted/blue_ice_warthog_45_previ... It's pretty bombproof and simple, I'd reccomend one (I don't know the seller or the condition of the sack, to be clear)

 GrahamD 15 Jul 2020
In reply to DrJP:

Try them on, loaded with a representative weight.  You are more than likely going to reduce your short list on comfort grounds.

 Tigger 15 Jul 2020
In reply to DrJP:

I've got the ogre 42 (yellow), mainly a light weight crag pack, compresses very well for multi pitch. Only one seaons old so i can't say much about its durability yet.

I'd just say the back panel is a little too hard, so i just cut up an old 10mm mat and slotted it in alongside the manufacturers back panel. It's now quite comfy and holds its shape better.

My only quible is the axe holders might be a bit fiddly when wearing gloves, though i haven't had the chance to test that yet.

 nniff 15 Jul 2020
In reply to DrJP:

Or one of these - No 1 son has one and it's an awful lot of rucksack for not a lot.

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/alpinism-33-backpack-blue-id_8495214.html

or go bigger and still have change:

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/backpack-makalu-70-red-id_8360592.html

I've a couple of their ruckacks and havent't destroyed one yet

 Fozzy 15 Jul 2020
In reply to DrJP:

I’ve got a Lowe Alpine Crag Attack 42 that I use for 1-2 day mountain trips.  Cheap, tough, comfy & cavernous. 

 raincloud 15 Jul 2020
In reply to DrJP:

There is a blue ice warthog 45 for sale on here at the moment - May suit what you need in both size and cost

 scope 15 Jul 2020
In reply to DrJP:

Lowe Alpine bags are great value for money. My alpine ascent 40:50 is under 1kg, rugged, well featured without too much clutter.

 mcawle 15 Jul 2020
In reply to scope:

I have one of these too, and it's done decent service for about 3 years. Haven't heard about the current equivalents, though I see the RRP has crept up a bit and put them in the ballpark with more 'premium' offerings.

 Run_Ross_Run 15 Jul 2020
In reply to DrJP:

Lowe alpine Airzone Pro 35-45. 

I Have a brand new one with tags for sale on ukc. £55

 mcawle 16 Jul 2020
In reply to Run_Ross_Run:

They're good bags, I have one, but I wouldn't consider it a mountaineering backpack...

 Run_Ross_Run 16 Jul 2020
In reply to mcawle:

Really? Surprised at that but each to their own as they say.

Op is looking for a multi use pack in any case which they are too. 

 mcawle 16 Jul 2020
In reply to Run_Ross_Run:

It's the weight and the shape of that pack that underpin my comments. Especially the airzone taking the weight back away from your body - less desirable for climbing. And at nearly 1.6kg it's double the weight of most mountaineering backpacks around that size.

Not to say you couldn't use it in the mountains, of course, but it is marketed and sold (and presumably designed) as a hiking pack.

 stratandrew 17 Jul 2020
In reply to DrJP:

As others have said fit is everying so try on in a reputable independent shop or go see Adrian at Aiguille especially if your body shape is odd.....! My  small size mutant 38 served me well but is knackered now. I would echo the comments on Crux AK47-x, again i have the size 3. I've just bought a Crux AX40 from Needle Sports in a sale despite it only having a single back length it seems to fit. Just £79.99....

For expeditions i have a custom made Aiguille Alpine 70 +15 a hybrid of two of their standard sacs.

 RatKing 17 Jul 2020
In reply to DrJP:

Very surprised less people have said Deuter. Their bags are incredibly good and have a good range in sizes. They tend to contain a foam board thing in them to keep the back straight and structured, great for climbing. Also very comfortable and have the right zip locations etc


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