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A couple of South Lakes bouldering queries

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 C Witter 17 Jul 2020

Hey up -

I was wondering if any locals to the South Lakes can help with two very specific questions about a couple problems.

1. Problem 50, Upper left Tier (f7A+) at Fairy Steps - The arete itself is obviously out. But, does anyone know if using the thin crack crimp just left of the arete as a starting hold is considered in? Someone else has also asked this in the logbooks, and I'm presuming it is simply because it's MUCH harder to start without it.

2. John Kettle's Carsick (f6C+) at Brant Fell - The description reads "climb the middle of the slab". But, as far as I can see, there are no starting footholds at all in the middle of the slab. It looks as though the start is right of centre, off an obvious low side pull with tiny feet slightly to the right of that, but eliminating the groove/arete and large feet at the bottom of the groove. Is that right, or is levitation actually required?

Trying to remember any other eliminate issues while I'm here, but they've escaped me. Any help with these would be much appreciated!

Post edited at 15:43
In reply to C Witter:

If I’ve got the correct problem, I did it like this:   youtube.com/watch?v=rwehSDFNTSA&

Not sure which crimp you’re referring to. 

 GPN 18 Jul 2020
In reply to C Witter:

> 1. Problem 50, Upper left Tier (f7A+) at Fairy Steps - The arete itself is obviously out. But, does anyone know if using the thin crack crimp just left of the arete as a starting hold is considered in? Someone else has also asked this in the logbooks, and I'm presuming it is simply because it's MUCH harder to start without it.

Sorry - it starts off the flat holds as per GCW's video. The rule of thumb for S Lakes eliminates is that if it feels easy for the grade, then you've used the wrong holds

 John Kettle 18 Jul 2020
In reply to C Witter:

The Carsick problem does start in the middle of the slab off very small edges, and the start (getting hands to the overlap) is the crux. I've not been back on it since 2012 but it definitely wasn't near the central groove, or eliminate feeling, just a fingery, very technical start. Hope that helps

OP C Witter 19 Jul 2020
In reply to C Witter:

Thanks all - very helpful!


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