UKC

Post surgery & in a cast, surgeon said its OK to do cv but wondering, since my unbroken arm is my dominant and therefore stronger arm am I better trying to keep some strength with the odd bit of finger boarding and some weights or just leave it and build both back up together once I'm ready to rehab the injured one? 

In reply to andybenham: Sorry to hear your news and don’t lose heart. It happened to me last year. I broke my wrist, I stopped fingerboarding and borrowed a turbo trainer and did that to lose weight and did more on my core. Make a plan and try and stick to it!

Jim

In reply to JimHolmes69:

Cheers Jim good to hear. 3 days post op. Been doing squats & walking so far. Turbo trainer sounds like a good plan

In reply to andybenham:

Sorry to hear that. There can be some benefit, yes. For the sake of efficiency your body only wants to keep muscle mass in the areas where you are actually using it. However, when your body is deciding whether or not it’s worth the energy cost of maintaining muscle in an area, it basically looks at your arms together rather than as separate entities. What this means is that if you keep training your good arm, your body is “tricked” into also maintaining a degree of strength on the other side. 

It’s obviously not as good as being able to train both, but it basically delays your body noticing that you aren’t using the arm and starting to pull resources away from that area. 

In reply to andybenham:

Can’t see any reason why you shouldn’t keep your hand in as it were especially as mentioned above there is some evidence that your other arm will atrophy less by doing so.

A very convenient way to fingerboard with one arm (after warming up) is to pull on a hold with feet still on the ground for several seconds.

If you want a routine then a possible one is to warm up by gradually doing pulls harder and harder on a first joint edge with decent rests between then do max pulls for (say) 6 seconds per pull. I’d suggest you do (say) 6 each of the max pulls in each of the three main grip positions - half crimp, full crimp and drag. 

If you wanted to monitor the force you are generating then stand on bathroom scales.

In reply to andybenham:

If you are on Instagram there are some recent posts of Lynn Hill who is rehabbing a broken wrist, though some breaks are much worse than others so what she is doing may not be appropriate for your injury I suppose. She also has access to very good resources. Might be of interest though. 

In reply to andybenham:

Thanks for the replies everyone. Good stuff. One handed supported finger boarding later then!