UKC

I'm going to North Wales with a beginner soon and I want to take them on some crack routes. Can anyone suggest some easy jamming pitches to learn/practice on? I'm thinking S-VS, preferably where I can easily see and communicate from the top belay.

Ogwen valley would be particularly convenient, but Llanberis, Tremadog, Anglesey would be good too.

Cheers!

Herford's Crack (HVS 5a)

Heyup Jezz, this one, it's steady vs4c all day, pity it's not longer though. Flake crack next to it is really good as well.

This looks perfect! Maybe only VS if you already know how to jam though!

Scimitar Crack (VS 4c)

This one is actually VS4C

Wow, a great route, thanks for the suggestion. Not sure I agree with VS though, felt more Bond Street than The File! My partner didn't get very high on it (I think learning to hand jam and foot jam at the same time was a bit too steep a learning curve) so the quest to learn to jam continues...

Some easy jamming and laybacking on p.1 and 3 of Superdirect (HVS 5a). You could easily do just p.1 (VS 4c) and then move onto a different route (e.g. the Direct), finishing up a chimney for the novelty. The Direct Route actually has cracks on p.1 and p.2, though jamming isn't mandatory.

Noah's Warning (VS 5a)

I remember the route being steep, but the jams being a nice size.

Sabre Cut, my 1st ever VS  and at the sharp end.    Got a big bendy boot jammed in it.

Not a single runner and I thought I was going to die, did it 30+ year's later and got 15 in as an exercise

 so the quest to learn to jam continues...

get back to Stanage and do

Easy Jamming (HVD 4a)

Sleazy Jamming (S 4b)

The Real 20-foot Crack (VS 4c)

in that order and you'll be well away. All next to each other in a nice quiet area.

Not many on the slate but this one's worthwhile....

Mad Dog of the West (VS 5a)

The Cracks (HS 4c)

This has plenty of jamming in it and dare I say it the penultimate pitch is one of the best easy jamming cracks I've done (hand jamming). This pitch is slabby enough to take your time with the hand placements and long enough to get a good sequence of jams going, if only it were straight off of the floor.