UKC

Anyone using the Revo like to share their experience?

Would it be suitable for a novice?

In reply to Martin Haworth:

I've used one a bit. I'm not a fan.

Very smooth to use, ace.

But, having used it fairly often now, I just don't trust it enough to lock up in all the situations I'd expect it to.

In reply to Martin Haworth:

I've found it to be mostly straightforward to use and suitable for use by novices. Certainly better than an ATC or similar and better than some Grigri's. It has occasionally proved tricky to release under load (ie. climber has fallen and the auto lock has played its part and jammed the rope). I think this has mostly been belayers pulling hard enough on the rope when releasing. They are quite heavy, more so than many other auto locking devices.

In reply to jezb1:

Any particular reason for this lack of trust?

In reply to Mark Eddy: Thanks for the response. Weight is not an issue as it’s planned use is for indoors and outdoors single pitch bottom rope belaying.

In reply to Martin Haworth:

If you're looking for a decent assisted look that's IMO more suitable than the Grigri, I really like the Click Up as it handles like a tuber  with a locking feature. It's quite intuitive if you have used an ATC, with only a minor modification in the way you pay out... 

In reply to beardy mike: Yes, the Click Up was the other option I was looking at. 

In reply to Martin Haworth:

Yes, I find it suitable for novice use as a belay device. It pays out smoothly and locks up safely in every situation I have encountered, and I have tested quite a bit.

In reply to Stefan Jacobsen:Thanks Stefan.

In reply to Martin Haworth:

I like the BD Pilot. Very simple and more intuitive than some of the other devices mentioned on this thread. Surprised I don't see more of them, more common in the US I think. 

In reply to Eduardo2010:

+1 for the pilot. Simple and comfortable to use and also very light.  Pays out rope really well and easy to release after a rest or fall. 

In reply to Martin Haworth:

This is probably its best use, and it’s the most ideal for novice use of all the assisted devices I’ve tried. It works exactly like a normal tube device in use, and only auto locks if something has gone wrong (or occasionally with over-exuberant giving out slack), providing a useful opportunity for debriefing!
I bought it intending to use it when my rarely-climbing partner belays me, or to give to use for partners I don’t know well, like at club meets. But it’s now my most used device, it also reassures me for my own belaying having that backup.

Ive never heard of any critical failures, and would be very keen to hear if that alluded to above is based on fact!

I think it’s often mis-described as a grigri replacement: they have quite different niches, and unless they develop a new version that can lock off on demand, it’s not that useful for red pointing and hard leads.

In reply to Eduardo2010:

There are several Auto locking tube style, aka Auto tubers like the Salewa Ergo the Austrialpin Fish or even the Mammut Smart 2.0 and none has really been able to become dominant.

I really like my Ergo, though.

In reply to damowilk:

You can lock off on demand. Just hold break rope close to device and as you raise brake rope flick lock shoulder out.

In reply to Qwerty2019:

And keep a good grip on the rope, if you activate the ears they engage into a part of the wheel not intended for this and slip  out of the side at very moderate loads like bodyweight. In normal operation the stainless steel centrifugal weight occupies this cut-out and blocks solidly, without the weight in the way you are relying on about 1mm of aluminium, probably why WC don't mention this as a technique.

In reply to Qwerty2019:

I’m aware there is some bodged methods, but as Jimtitt says below, I’d read there were not recommended as safe.

In reply to Martin Haworth:

Apologies if this is not UKC etiquette, and I should post in FS instead (in which case, mods feel free to delete this), but just to say that if you do decide to go for the Click Up, I have a spare in VGC that I'm selling. Pictures on request. £40 posted.

(Spare meaning that, while I swear by this device, I don't really need two!)